Power Grid question

Hi, I have a friend who has a question regarding the power grid. He changed over from an 8973 and was asking about if the power grid lost some timing in the unit. I guess the 8973 lost like 4 or 6 degrees of timing as a default.

Any and all help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Trevor Sherwood
727-364-4368
Soldierboy0098@yahoo.com

 

Power Grid Timing Loss vs the 8973

Trevor, MSD did tell me today the Power Grid would loose some timing (with a crank trigger), like the 8973, but not as much, due to a faster more modern processor. The 8973 would loose 4 degrees on the 3 that I used and we had to set timing 4 degrees higher on the crank trigger to get correct timing. I am going to check; but feel like the Power Grid will loose 1 to 2 degrees max. The timing is so important on the fatheads, but at least it is always on the retarded side as a SAFETY feature anyway! THANKS! Jim

 

Just setting the timing the first time for a new motor combination/power grid

Mike, I have a new car/motor combination and just setting the timing for the first time and wanted to set the crank trigger, as close as possible the first time. I have to pull the bottom pulley off just to get to the crank trigger adjustment (and to see the magnets good), and just wanting to get close as possible, as we had to set the 8973; 4 degrees advanced due to the negative default setting with the crank tigger and 8973. I realize after I have it set, I will be good to go, just not wanting to have too much timing starting with a new fathead combination for us, and wanting to be as close as we can-THANK YOU for the help!-THANKS! Jim

 

Trevor, my advise would be to do the first startup with only the mag wires jumped. This will bypass lots of potential electrical issues and you need to get the mag/rotor/cap in the correct position and timing because if you had an issue on race day and had to jump the mag, it all has to be correct to run that way anyhow.
With the cap off and touching nothing on the mag, roll the engine over very gently and stop when the rotor snaps on it's own for #1 firing. Read the amount of timing and adjust this so that the rotor snaps at 50*BTDC. When you start the engine it will run at about 28* with this adjustment if your mag, oil pump mag drive and cam end play are average: find your exact # for this engine and you can set it in the shop to less than a degree.
Then hook up the trigger and set the engine at TDC and the trigger about 138-139* before that(counting up and over the top) and start it on the trigger and adjust as required; it should really need to be at about 140*.
MSD does say that the units vary from one to another and can be from 3 to 10* of retard!!!
I think that bit us in Vegas as we had an ignition stutter on our second round single so changed everything including the grid and while it ran fine it slowed down a bunch.
Jeff Johnsen