sunday nigh thought rotor phasing.....again !!!!!

Discussion in 'PSI Superchargers Tech Questions' started by PROMOD63, Apr 21, 2013.

  1. PROMOD63

    PROMOD63 Member

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    ok follow me here we were at the track last night fighting the same old deal when we change mags and my buddy says hey you know when we get this dam rotor phasing right lets hook the car up and run it on the mag,record where the timing is no matter what the number then the next time we put it in we can set it right back to that number as a referance for the phasing ? why wouldnt this work ?
     
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  2. Mike Canter

    Mike Canter Top Dragster
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    I am assuming that you have a crank trigger. Not sure what you mean in your statement. If you run at let's say 26* then put the mag in then while running on the mag set the timing to 26* then switch to the crank trigger and set it at 26*. Now the rotor is phased. You can now swap mags and set the timing on the mag at 26* and if you haven't changed the crank trigger the rotor will still be phased
     
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  3. PROMOD63

    PROMOD63 Member

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    that's what we thought it should get you really close after you get it right then document the reading with it running on the mag before changing it mike do you set urs with the car running or set it before you crank it ? with the movement of the rotor when the engine is running our was different when we set it with the engine off then checked it after we started it
     
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  4. Mike Canter

    Mike Canter Top Dragster
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    I have a mark on the outer body of the mag where it connects to the drive then a mark on the top where the rotor should line up. So if it is in place with those marks should be lined up which is close enough to start it. Turning the mag with the motor running can be real tricky especially if you have never done it before. That mag is going to want to turn on you if you loosen it too much and at that point regardless you cannot let go of it. It is easier to start it see where the timing is and shut it down and move it then start it and check it again. That mag does not have to be right on to be phased one degree either side will not hurt a thing if you are always using the crank trigger.
     
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  5. PROMOD63

    PROMOD63 Member

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    so we just tried to phase it without starting it on the mag first it started and ran but we had issues then we checked the timing on the mag only and it was way off so we need to get it right then phase it correct
     
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  6. KJC

    KJC Authorized Merchant

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    I have an upper mag clamp/bracket that is adjustable so you can turn the mag with no problems when the motor is running. Kevin Cantrell 602-918-4945
     
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  7. blownapex

    blownapex Member

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    phasing

    the timing your checking on the mag only is the mag pickup timing
    thats not phasing
    the big cap and rotor have three screws on the cap adapter that you phase it with
    the small cap and rotor are not adjustable so no phazing that i know of
    i get confused sometimes also so double check me 1st

    drill a hole in the cap and look at rotor to #1 terminal
    at 26 degree you should be on the leading edge
    at say 10 degree with tb button pushed it shoould be on the trailing edge
    or split the difference
    if im wrong let me know but thats how i do it
     
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  8. blownapex

    blownapex Member

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    phasing

    and their is somekind of 5 degree offset with the 8973 plugged in
    i always set and check mine with 8973 plugged to crank trigger and mag
    never plug the mag into itself or you may be off 5 degree when you plug the 8973
    back in
    again double check me i might be wrong

    alton you going to gateway mickey thompson shoot out
     
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  9. PROMOD63

    PROMOD63 Member

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    duane we may come if i can get this pos to run thats a hell of a pull to test! we are going to take it this weekend to see if we can figure it out but this dam phasing deal kicks our butt almost every year so does the mag timing and the magnet pop have anything to do with rotor phasing on the trigger ?
     
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  10. Mike Canter

    Mike Canter Top Dragster
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    Yes and no on the rotor and cap phasing. If you have a large cap then yes you need to phase the rotor to the cap post by first turning the cap base. First get the cap base position close enough so the motor will start, then set the timing by rotating the mag, then adjust the rotor phasing to the cap and yes I have found that drilling a hole in a cap close to and inside of the post you are using for number one is the easiet and most accurate way I have found to do it. Once the mag is timed and the cap is phased to the rotor then you can set the crank trigger timing. This is not necessary to do on the small cap. If you are using a small cap with a crank trigger then you have to first set the timing right on with it running on the mag then hookup the crank trigger and set the timing by adjusting the crank trigger position.

    The 5* lag in the 8973 is designed to allow the processor chip time to think/calaculate/control the timimg. If using an 8973 then always keeping the 8973 in the cicuit will prevent and confusion. There is no reason to take the 8973 out of the circuit to phase the rotor or set the timing on the mag or crank trigger.
     
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  11. overkill69

    overkill69 Member

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    phase

    Not to add confusion but here's how I do it.
    Eyeball the rotor to #1 with the mag trigger connected and start the car.
    Set it to around 5 degrees less than the timing you want on the crank trigger. That way when you dump timing on the starting line it doesn't go sa far out of phase that it farts/misses.
    Disconnect mag trigger and start the car with the crank trigger and the 8973 hooked up.
    Adjust the crank trigger as required or dump some timing on a step retard with the 8973.
    The only trouble we ever had was running a promag 12 with a small cap. If you set the mag correct with the crank trigger the car would fart and miss when the timing was dumped. The 44 had enough heat to jump the gap and cleaned it up but no increase in performance.
    The way I see it, the cap is intentionally out of phase to help stay clean when a lot of timing is pulled out.
    One thing I learned is if you run the cap too far retarded the car starts poorly. Not a big deal unless you are in the staging lanes and have a crank trigger or 8973 fail. If the car will start on the mag trigger at least you can take the tree.
    If this is all wrong it might explain why Duane is .3 quicker than me.
     
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  12. overkill69

    overkill69 Member

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    phase

    I almost forgot...Turning the mag while it's running. ..we had a support bracket that was holding the mag still we thought...the mag started retarding while I was checking the timing and it was a rear mount chevy. The headers were blowing fire so high it was above the roof and my partner couldn't get inside to hit the kill switch. I pulled the fuel shutoff quick but anybody with a screw knows how long they run on accumulated fuel. By the time it quit it was blowing bright white fireworks into the air...I thought it burned some valves but we couldn't find any problems.
    That was the first time we fired a screw engine.lol.
     
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  13. PROMOD63

    PROMOD63 Member

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    ok so we cut a big ole hole in a cap started it on the mag the phasing was spot on at 26 just coming into the post so we shut it off and changed it to the trigger and it wouldn't hit a lick ? the trigger is set at about 28 with 100 air gap and we use a 48 volt blower starter? we can move it around to get it to start but will it be right ?
     
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  14. blownapex

    blownapex Member

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    8973

    on your 8973 if your 1st dot is moved down (taking timing out)
    you will have to turn power on and hit transbrake button to get the timing back up
    to your base timing (example 26) if not it will run with what you have out on 1st dot
    also last dot needs to be at your base timing (example 26)

    alton if you have 8973 you may be doing this
    if you set timing with out pushing button to reset you may have way too much timing when you do reset it
     
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  15. Mike Canter

    Mike Canter Top Dragster
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    ProMod63. Try closing that gap on the trigger. I run them as small as .045 using a plastic tie wrap as a feeler gauge. A tie wrap is a lot easier to use than trying to stack feeler gauges together. Having the air gap smaller will not hurt the performance of the crank trigger. Having the gap too big will prevent it from starting. Try .060 and see if it starts.
     
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  16. PROMOD63

    PROMOD63 Member

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    mike thanks for the tip ill try tonight, duane so you are sayin that when i start this thing and dont touch the brake button at all it has the 16 out already that i have programed in to take out when the brake is let off ? if this is correct it explains alot of crazy stuff !!
     
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  17. Mike Canter

    Mike Canter Top Dragster
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    That depends if you have any timing curve other than zero set up in the Run Retard Curve. Talking about the lower graph on the laptop screen. The 8973 starts up in the Run Retard Curve. If you press the transbrake button or push in the clutch pedal it puts 12v onto the blue wire going to the 8973 which switches it to the upper graph which is the Launch Retard Curve. So if you have retard set into the Launch Retard Curve when you start the motor then that retard is put into the mag. This means if you have five degrees retard from a 30 base the motor has started and is running at 25 degrees. So if you are adjusting the timing it has that 5 degrees retard already applied. The standard procedure is to hit the transbrake button once after you start the motor and set the timing to make sure no retards are applied or the base timing is going to be 5 degrees retarded.
     
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