Fuel Injection Ent. Crank trigger

Discussion in 'PSI Superchargers Tech Questions' started by 95mmrenegade, Oct 11, 2012.

  1. 95mmrenegade

    95mmrenegade New Member

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    I got my FIE crank trigger installed today and had some issues getting it fired. I initally had the gap set at .065 and it would not fire and the spark was very erratic. I moved tightened up the gap to .044 and now it fires and the timing is *close*, 30 degrees is showing 27 but thats probably sensor calibration/crank trigger setup with a new crank trigger.

    Problem is when I rev the motor with the timing set to a static 30 degrees, it loses alittle timing as the revs increase. At 2000rpms its shows 27, at 3000 rpms it shows maybe 25. Seems like it moves directly related to RPM.
    PT
     
    #1
    95mmrenegade, Oct 11, 2012
  2. Mike Canter

    Mike Canter Top Dragster
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    What kind of ignition system do you have?
     
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    Mike Canter, Oct 11, 2012
  3. 95mmrenegade

    95mmrenegade New Member

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    Big Stuff 3, Promag 44
     
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    95mmrenegade, Oct 11, 2012
  4. Mike Canter

    Mike Canter Top Dragster
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    It is not unusual to have the airgap close when using a block starter vice an aircraft type starter on the blower. The block starters just can't spin it over fast enough to get a high enough signal off the crank trigger to fire the ProMag. It doesn't hurt to have the crank trigger airgap real small as long as it does not make contact when the crank distorts during acceleration. Since you don't use a blower belt off the crank then you should be OK. It is not unheard of block starter Promods having the crank trigger airgap at around .052". I plastic tie wrap is a perfect gauge for setting the gap.

    As far as the timing moving around is strange. It cannot be the crank trigger causing that because it is locked in place. It can't be the ProMag because it is using the crank trigger. That only really leaves the setup in the Big Stuff. Never hooked up a Big Stuff to a ProMag and probably very few others have on this forum. The first thing to verify is that you are in fact using the crank trigger and don't have it hooked up incorrectly. Try just disconnecting the wire from the crank trigger and make sure it will not start. If it still starts then it is not hooked up correctly. What kind of timing curve do you have in the Big Stuff? Have you verified that it is all zeroed out? If so then maybe the best thing is to call Big Stuff and ask them.
     
    #4
    Mike Canter, Oct 11, 2012
  5. NITROBANDIT1

    NITROBANDIT1 LOST IN SPACE

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    Polarized

    hey, mike didnt msd say that if the polarity of the crank trigger wires were reversed that it could affect spark timing? just a thought maybe. dan
     
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    NITROBANDIT1, Oct 11, 2012
  6. Mike Canter

    Mike Canter Top Dragster
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    That's good point and worth checking. If the setup worked OK without the crank trigger then it would be the crank trigger that has the wires switched. I don't know if Spud uses the same color wires as MSD and I would guess he does and then not sure if Big Stuff uses the same colors.
     
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    Mike Canter, Oct 12, 2012
  7. badbird

    badbird New Member

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    i use the same set up and use an MSD pick up, the big n20 style trigger/damper/wheel
    with no problems the only time we has a rev/run related slight retard was when the map sensor failed,
    otherwise it has to be in the bs3 set up
     
    #7
    badbird, Oct 12, 2012
  8. TOL

    TOL Active Member

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    Have you tried another light? How many magnets do you have on the trigger wheel?
     
    #8
    TOL, Oct 12, 2012
  9. 95mmrenegade

    95mmrenegade New Member

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    Ended up having to tighten up the air gap to .044 and swap the wires. John said they needed to go +-+- to work correctly. Swapping the wires helped, tightening up the gap got it to work correctly. ALso had to change the inductive delay from 13ms to 52ms to get the timing to hold on a sweep. Anyways here is 2 logs, 1st one is MSD crank trigger, 2nd one is FIE crank trigger. The motor gets up on the transbrake much much better with the FIE crank trigger. It just doesn't labor like it did with the MSD crank trigger. I think the MSD crank trigger was getting some interference from the mag44 and causing erratic RPM readings.

    Screen shot 1, car labors to get onto the transbrake, takes about 4 seconds to get through the revs and onto the 2 step, the lower yellow line is it cutting cylinders
    5# of boost in 5.8 seconds
    [​IMG]

    Made one change, now it takes 2 seconds to get through the revs and onto the 2 step.

    5# of boost in 3.5 seconds, made 11.3# of boost 3800rpms, 7.4 seconds, car will not take that much boost by any stretch. Been a 1.21 on 6.2# on the hit.
    [​IMG]
     
    #9
    95mmrenegade, Oct 14, 2012
  10. NITROBANDIT1

    NITROBANDIT1 LOST IN SPACE

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    Geeeeeeeeeeeeeez

    sometimes its the simplest things that screw us up. you could have been hunting this down for years! glad to see you found the culprit. this is why we used to order cars with no power window regulators and no cruise control!!!!!!!!!!!!
     
    #10
    NITROBANDIT1, Oct 15, 2012

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