Why not goin' simple ????

I'm wondering how a wet oil system perform on a blown engine, who can share his own experience. How does it work at the top end ?

I will be close to helpless in the maintenance routine on my blown wedge KB, and I may decide to go to a wet oil system vs a dry one to cut the weight down and also to go simpler.
I know a lot of team who use dry P&P system with bad experience.

Please share your opinion on this simple discussion.

thanks

Eric

eric@vantastic-racing.com
http://vantastic-racing.com/

 

Eric,
If you've got a 6-inch dragster style pan that can hold 12-14 quarts, you won't have any problem with a wet-sump, especially since a wedge doesn't need near as much oil to the valve train as a Hemi would, plus drain-back from the top is better on a wedge. A smaller F/C style pan is a little more iffy, unless you overfill, I wound up using an accumulator on a previous altered to stop pressure fluctuation in the traps, worked well although a lot of people consider it a bandaid. Using the P&P on my present altered, don't think the issues are so much with the pump as it is crankcase pressure not allowing oil to drain down through the tiny drain holes until after the engine is shut off, then filling the pan and giving appearance that the scavenge side of the pump isn't working. With the better drainback on a wedge, that may not be near as much of an issue. JMHO

 

We kept blowing up motors because of lack of oil from the wet sump, the motor just flat ran out of oil by the finish line. We put an accumulator on, and that helped a lot, but eventually went to the dry sump. We now use a System 1 pump, and are very happy with it

 

Thanks for your answer,
in fact... I don't want to run as fast as the big dogs always on the cutting edge... I have plenty of spares to build a dry oiling system on my car, but, as I said, I wish to build this new car as simple as possible. I know there is lot of oiling issue on the big Brad engine because of the bad heads drainback. I don't think I will suffer of those troubles with my B1 wedge.
Went visit Koffel (mr B1) who run the "lake Erie monster" dragster, and I was very surprised to see how fast it is with such a very simple combination of parts. (no fuel lean out, no timing retards, no dry sump), with a very safe tuning.
About the oiling he trust the good old swiwel pick up and oil pump from Milodon, nothing more...... Goin thrue the traps somewhere in the 8200 rpm.
My goal is to run 6.7-6.8" in the 1/4 with my 2600lbs pro mod.

What's your opinion ?????

 

We run a dry sump on our blown KB blocked wedge, i really like it, after we got through the headache of plumbing the thing anyway.

 

Think of it this way. If you kick the rods and have a really bad day, then what could potentially be under your tires? IMO both wet and dry can be made to "work" but where would you like your bulk oil supply to be should you have an "oh #$%^ day?.....

 

wet sump for me

Blown BB Chevy, HH SSI 10-71, 8000rpm. If money was no object then I would look at a dry sump option. However, we are a self funded team and my wife and I pay for everything so we have to do things on a budget. We run pretty standard stuff, ie Dart block, hamburger pan, blueprinted Mellings pump, 50 weight oil (80 psi hot), King bearings. We have not had an oil based failure (touch wood) for many years and run the same bearings all season. The 50 psi oil light comes on whenever we pull the chute but havent hurt anything as theres little load on the engine at that stage. By the time we pull off the track the press is back and I shut it down.

 

Dry Sump

Most everyone that changes over to a dry sump system won't change back!

Just my 02

 

I run a BAE roots in a 3300 lbs 10.5 Truck running 6.80's at 206... I'm running a wet sump with a 6 inch dragster pan, I put in 18 quarts, I leave the line at 160 lbs oil pressure and at the stripe its down to 50 never a problem 3 yrs now I also run the same bearings all season 60 plus passes. brad penn straight 50

click

 

sump

There's lots of posts on this subject...We fought hard to make the wetsump work on a blown BBC for years when nobody else would vouch for it. Now plenty of ADRL PX cars have wetsumps for weight savings. The hemi drysumps aren't really a drysump. They still carry a TON of oil because they don't scavenge very well.
The best thing about the setup is it supplies non foamy oil throughout the run.A wetsump with good oil return is going to be circulating $hitty oil. That's why synthetic is critical. It can survive when beatup by the rotating assembly.
Also make sure you have plenty of oil to compensate for several quarts sitting in the heads.Carefully meter the oil to the topend and build big return hoses to the pan.
We run 15qts of Redline 60 with a 3 qt accumulator. 9000rpm with a screw and around 2800hp.Works ok so far.

 

Just our own experience. Wet sumps worked with roots blowers and if you switch to screw it will need a dry sump. Tried to make it work otherwise and know the sad story. Personally the P&P works awesome but we always drain the pan of a litre or two after warm up so everything is in the tank when is refired. Don't forget the suction is not the same at idle as it is at 8000 rpm and its at max 6 feet off the start line. Thats why there is hardly anything in the pan if the driver clicks the motor and coasts down. Steve designed a great product and it flat works all the way to the finish line.
thanks
Dale