Spark plugs

Discussion in 'PSI Superchargers Tech Questions' started by schevy, Jan 17, 2012.

  1. schevy

    schevy Member

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    What is the best plug for a blown application. Running ngk b8es
     
    #1
    schevy, Jan 17, 2012
  2. Mike Canter

    Mike Canter Top Dragster
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    An NGK B8ES is OK but it would be safer to run a B10ES. The heat of the center electrode means nothing in tuning a blown alcohol motor so you want it to be as cold as you can get it. The B8ES and B10ES both use a 13/16" socket. The same heat range but using a 5/8" socket is a NGK R5671a-10. A more expensive plug that has a real short groundstrap for all out pushing the envelope racing is a NGK R6061-10 and that also uses a 13/16" socket. All of those plugs have the same reach.

    You might find this helpful

    http://www.dragstuff.com/techarticles/reading-alcohol-spark-plugs.html
     
    #2
    Mike Canter, Jan 17, 2012
  3. chutedragger

    chutedragger Member

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    I have had great success with autolite stuff. Never burned up, and never dropped a cylinder. I have switched to Nitro so I have some alcohol plugs left, if you want to try them.


    Autolite Spark Plugs - Blown Alcohol (Brand New)

    #AR2593 (48 of them)
    #AR2592 (16 of them) ....$100 for all !!

    Mike,

    Mpawluk@hotmail.com
     
    #3
    chutedragger, Jan 18, 2012
  4. Mike Canter

    Mike Canter Top Dragster
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    Mike, I have never had success accurately reading an Autolite plug for coating burnoff. The coating never seems to burn off so they all look like it is rich to me. Maybe you learned how but I never did. They make an absolutely great nitrous plug.
     
    #4
    Mike Canter, Jan 18, 2012
  5. chutedragger

    chutedragger Member

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    We actually did fine. I could see the heat (tempering) on the wire...and then down into the threads. It always matched the racepack. Two threads was getting pretty hot. Typically would run from the wire into the face, and once in a while lean on it, into the first thread.

    We ran a high 6's with a Blown Small block Chevy in nostagia A-Fuel, with an ssi blower (28 - 34 lbs boost), and the little pump, so we could get that precise!
     
    #5
    chutedragger, Jan 18, 2012
  6. schevy

    schevy Member

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    plugs

    Thanks For the help got a set of ngk 10es . Do you ever ohm the plugs the 10's wont show anything?
     
    #6
    schevy, Jan 18, 2012
  7. Mike Canter

    Mike Canter Top Dragster
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    So what do you mean by "they won't show anything"? My B10ES show 10.2 ohms through them and the R5671a-10 shows 0.3 ohms through them. Both of those resistances are transparent to high voltage.
     
    #7
    Mike Canter, Jan 19, 2012
  8. Wildcatracing

    Wildcatracing Member

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    Plugs

    Hi Mike, the B10ES must be a resister plug if its 10.2 ohms, is it normal to use resister plugs in this application? The other measurement you can take is from the center electode to earth, it should always read in the meg ohms but you cannot hold the probes using your hands for this test (as your body's resistance is less than this). If there is resistance in the Kohms etc the plug's insulation may have broken down or there could be a carbon track or crap in it somewhere. Cheers Graham
     
    #8
    Wildcatracing, Jan 19, 2012
  9. Mike Canter

    Mike Canter Top Dragster
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    No the B10ES is not a resistor plug. A resister plug will read around 4000 ohms (or 4K ohms)
     
    #9
    Mike Canter, Jan 19, 2012
  10. schevy

    schevy Member

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    plugs

    I was just ohming threw electrode.Putting black on spark plug end then red touching just electrode.
     
    #10
    schevy, Jan 19, 2012
  11. Mike Canter

    Mike Canter Top Dragster
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    It better read wide open like that. Measure from the plug wire connecting contact to the center electrode.
     
    #11
    Mike Canter, Jan 19, 2012
  12. JM

    JM Member

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    Plug reading / Timing

    I have a question from information I picked up on this thread, perhaps I should start a new thread.
    Mike Canter provided some plug tuning information on a link (good stuff and Thank you!). I've tuned timing to the "blue band" at the 90 degree bend with plugs that have a full ground strap (gas). With the 6061 / Alky, where would you want to ideally see this. I guess I haven't taken timing far enough, I've gotten the 6061 ground strap dark grey, but no colors yet. I would think I'd want the blue at just the very tip? Thank you, Joe
     
    #12
    Last edited: Jan 23, 2012
    JM, Jan 23, 2012
  13. Mike Canter

    Mike Canter Top Dragster
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    Joe, I talked about timing in my article. We normally know what timing to use in most blown engines so it is easier to go with the set guidlines on timing and just read the plug for fuel mixture. What kind of motor are you tuning with what heads and compression ratio and what mag? Somebody here has probably run that combination and can give you timing recommendations. The problem is that in a blown alky motor the fuel mixture also changes the blue line on the ground strap. Timing and fuel mixture interact.
     
    #13
    Last edited: Jan 23, 2012
    Mike Canter, Jan 23, 2012
  14. JM

    JM Member

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    Thanks Mike,
    I'm running fathead, screw, 11.5 comp, MSD 44. I'm pretty aware that the max is 27 degrees from reading on here, conversations, and track time. I move the timing around a bit down going the track.
    Per the article you linked me to, I felt like I was right where it said to be on fuel tuning, and have been slowly creeping up on timing - just had never seen the blue line yet. I think the article more referenced full strap plugs and blue to the bend.
    And really, who's to say the degree ring timing mark is gospel? Maybe I'll end up 27 1/2 or something before I see the blue. The blue ring on alky tuning was news to me (working my way up to guru - not there yet HAHA). Is the blue a sign you're ON KILL (or too close to killing yourself...)?
    Anyhow, my assumption is if and when I achieve some blue on that 6061 grounding strap, I wouldn't want to see a whole lot of it before it's too much? Thank you for your input on this and many other posts I read over the years. Joe
     
    #14
    JM, Jan 24, 2012
  15. Mike Canter

    Mike Canter Top Dragster
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    The problem is that you can make that blue line appear from advancing the ignition or from leaning out the mixture. Since your plug coloring comes from the way the motor is running on the last part of the run it will only show you the heat in the cylinders for that period of time. I would set it on what ever timing you want on the end of the run then tune the fuel to make the plug base circle totally frosty on the top and inside slope of the 6061. Then you need to make a decision if you want heat down to the first thread or not. Never take it to the second thread because nothing is gained and very little is gained from heating the first thread.
     
    #15
    Mike Canter, Jan 24, 2012
  16. promodracer

    promodracer Member

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    Mike do you have a good pic of a 6061 with one thread cad burned off as an example. mine is cold also and I think (think) my cad is still there. not sure how obvious it is.
     
    #16
    promodracer, Jul 21, 2014
  17. Mike Canter

    Mike Canter Top Dragster
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    I have a picture of plugs with 30% cad burned off which demonstrates what I talk about in my article. PM me your email address and I will send them to you since you have to pay to add pictures on this forum
     
    #17
    Mike Canter, Jul 21, 2014

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