Block Starter Questions

Trying to install a block starter from srcatch. Motor is a KB Hemi cast 426 block with Dan Olsen oil pan has kick out on passenger side so trying to install on driver side.
I know some of you guys have done this and hope there is some good suggestions how to approach this.
Have full mid plate motor is in a door car with adapter plate for a converter drive on a lenco. Any suggestions where to start?
Thanks for any help.

 

Look at this thread and I think it will answer your question.

http://www.insidetopalcohol.com/sho...starter-Doorcar.&highlight=starter+on+KB+hemi

 

If you're using the stock starter position in a FC/Altered chassis, the upright at the motorplate is your biggest issue, width of most chassis won't allow you to space starter out enough to clear the oil galley. Since this is a door car, you have the room to go to a larger flex-plate than the 130tooth Mopar. A 168 tooth is about 1 1/4" larger diameter which will allow you to move the starter out away from the block enough to clear the galley. You have to be careful to make sure you get the tooth pitch matched though, Mopar and Chevy use different pitch teeth. One is 10 pitch and one is 12, can't remember off-hand which is which. Meziere makes several different combinations of flexplates and starters, not cheap, but really nice pieces.

http://www.meziere.com/displaycategory.aspx?id=111,125

 

here's the way i did it.......
set block with pan installed on something to raise it off the floor high enough to install the motorplate. cut a piece of sheetmetal big enough to fit over 2 bellhousing studs and the dowel pin on the drivers side of the motor and install it. the starter will end up in the 7 o'clock position. install flywheel, i use a 168 tooth chevy ring gear. eye ball where the starter will sit and line up with the flywheel. cut hole in sheet metal (1 1/2"). i made a few small plates and got it where i wanted it. then just transfer the hole in the sheet metal to the motor plate. i use a 7/16" thick motor plate and bolted the starter directly to the motor plate. i put King Serts in the plate...works great. by using a 1 1/2" hole in motor plate that should give you plenty of room for final adjustment on the starter drive. i use a .050 piece of wire for the mesh on the teeth. use a chevy starter with many adjustment holes in the plate......that will let you rotate the solenoid where ever you need it to clear the pan and block. i use a CVR gear reduction starter with 24 volts directly to the solenoid. if i can help you in any way please let me know.
Darren
here are a few pics
http://s125.photobucket.com/albums/p41/hemialtered378/starter/

 

Thank you guys I am going to work to see what we can accomplish now. I will let you know how it goes

 

Hi BIG B;;;you put the hemi in your falcon?this is Don[that was building the 63 nova 2 door seden delivery...traded it off..building my myself a fuel altered now..put engine/trans i built for nova in it...better get off here,,this is tech fourm not a socializing fourm..
good luck with the starter..Darren Russel is a great fabicator..if theres a way he will be more the helpfull to tell you how to..he's helped me a lot on here and so has everyone else on here..a great site to be part of..
don
hotrodharley

 

Thanks Don we are getting close, some greatbhelp on this site for sure.....thanks to ITA for a great forum.

 

starter issues

I know this is an old thread, I have some issues in regard to this. I have a door car with full tube chassi and front struts. Mine engine is a TFX Hemi.

I know many people use the a chevy 168 tooth flexplate and simply bolt the starter to the mid plate where it is needed. However i can't do this because I am running a ATI supercase powergilde, with a hemi bell, the 168 chevy flexplate dosen't fit in the ATI bellhousing. the bellhousing does have provision for a mopar starter but it can't fit because of the TFX block. I would very much like to hear how other people have solved this problem that run a setup like mine.

I thought about moving the starter but the clearence between the flexplate and the bellhousing is pretty thight except in the starter pocket.

It is really tempting to just mill the bottom left corner off the block, to make room for the starter but this seems a bit much also.

 

Our dragster starter is on pass. side below block rail with a slight bump made into pan. The solenoid is on the top and use McAmis stater mount as used in Pro-mods with a slotted upper mount for teeth engagement adjustments.
It's a killer set-up and mounts just like a stock mopar starter, 3/8 on top and 1/2 bolt on bottom.

 

@ pete

Which flexplate are you using and what transmission? Also do you have any pictures?

I checked the mcaims starter it seems to come with a chevy gear.

 

TFX- lencodrive 168t csr pro-mod flexplate. I'll see if my son can get acouple.

 

pics

what's your e-mail?

 

grauen@gmail.com

 

I have a brand new starter just like the one in the pics. you can ask don he has seen the starter $75.00 and the ride ..Dave
620-249-5909

 

flying teeth

i would find a flexplate that doesnt have the ring gear welded to it. we had one that the ring gear broke, and went through the windshield of the car. sfi said quote " we certify the flexplate, not the ring gear " . real nice sfi. i believe mezeire makes one and maybe dmpe that is one piece out of bar stock. still have the piece we found laying on the track!

 

flexplate

Meizere makes the complete flexplate with the ring gear worth the money and it is billet.

 

sune, sent you some pics.

 

Thank you Pete