Bruno Glide/Hemi Problem?

Discussion in 'PSI Superchargers Tech Questions' started by Chad1236, Jul 31, 2011.

  1. Chad1236

    Chad1236 New Member

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    Hi guys,

    After any advice on what may have happened?

    Purchased a TCI Convertor/Adaptor plate, and complete kit to suit my Hemi - Bruno Combination.

    Went out 1st time today, over here in Australia, and made 2 passes, that were ok, trying to sort new setup..

    3rd pass, rolled into the water, for the burnout, slowly like I do, tramped the accelerator with the gearbox in 3rd, and then Bang, holes in the floor plan, the track, and shrapnel flying everywhere.

    Found the lugs that had been welded to the convertor all broken off, the bolts had sheared, 2 of them the ends were still loctited into the thread on the convertor??

    The bolts were 3/8th, and grade 8, I torqued them up as specified.

    The thread for them is only around 1/2 inch right on the convertor, then there was around a full inch of Spacers that were tack welded to the convertor, but were a 1/2 inch hole and not threaded.

    Would have this movement inside the 1/2 hole caused the problem? Also there was only 3 holes to bolt the convertor up, in the SFI Flexplate that was supplied, but 6 tabs on the convertor?

    I expected that convertor to be made to the correct length as I have a steel 1/4 inch mid plate, then a Alloy (TCI) adaptor plate to go from the hemi to chev bellhousing on the Bruno.

    Has anyone had any dramas or have any idea what could/would have gone wrong?

    I had given all my details to them with car and engine specs, and weight, gearbox etc....

    As there was around 1 full inch of spacers welded to the convertor, that were so much larger than the bolt, there was so much leverage between the flexplate and the actual thread? this seems like the problem?

    Now I am up for a new flexplate, floorpan in the car, and the front of the convertor is all damaged, also snapped the alloy guide off the end of my brand new CVR $500 Starter motor, is it worth cutting my losses, and trying to purchase a Hemi Bellhousing for the bruno and get a custom convertor made?

    I am only running the car as bracket car, around 7.7 1/4 mile, 3000lb race ready blown hemi sedan, it runs 18% overdrive and I am launching from idle.

    Thanks in advance for any advice.

    Chad 1236
     
    #1
  2. Mac

    Mac Member

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    3 pads is not enough in my opinion. Phone Rod at Spec-rite torque convertors. He's a Bruno guru and great guy to deal with.
    www.specriteconverters.com
     
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  3. 23T Hemmee

    23T Hemmee Member

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    Chad,
    Hate to hear it, wish I could think of anything good to say about TCI, but what you describe sounds pretty typical for most of their products. Three 3/8ths bolts is no where near adequate for the power your're running, especially with the way you described how the pads were drilled and tapped. I sheared three 7/16th bolts on a borrowed convertor year before last that had similar pads. If I was going to stay with a 3-bolt believe I would use 1/2" bolts when ordering the convertor. A word of warning, (think I mentioned this on the other thread) if TCI is still making their adapter plates 1/4" thick, the tranny studs will pull through unless they've redesigned since the one I had. They used to use what looked like a lawnmower wheel stud that had the serrated/knurled surface with a larger shoulder to keep from pulling through the plate. Problem was, they countersunk an 1/8th" so the stud would be flush on the backside, which only left an 1/8th" of meat to keep the stud from pulling through.

    You asked about a Hemi bellhousing, I'm sure someone sells them, maybe Browell, I know that Bruno only sells the Chevy pattern, its certified although its not full coverage, open on the bottom like a stock Chevy bell, never have understood that one. Again, sorry for your problems, sometimes it takes a while to get all of the gremlins out, but when you do, think you'll like the end result.
     
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  4. fastavenger 588

    fastavenger 588 New Member

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    problems

    if u are only going that fast why not a glide would be much better by the time u fix all that and buy a custom converter u could buy 1 hell of a glide and converter that is what i would do :rolleyes:
     
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  5. Chad1236

    Chad1236 New Member

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    Thanks for the replies guys.

    I thought that the way the spacers were done would have been the problem, bloody so disheartened after all the effort we go through to have shit like this happen.

    I have thought about the transmission studs pulling through, because of the way they are inserted and 0one actually pulled through whilw fitting it up, couldn't believe it.

    I have removed 2 outside studs, and drilled the right through my STEEL 1/4 mid plate, and used grade 8 High tensile bolts to go through the bellhousing, then through the mid plate, and nut washer so it is actually sandwiced tight and cannot possibly break away.

    I have contacted TCI, and await there reply, I had a few dramas at 1st with them, after paying but they did sort it all out for me, but don't like my chances this time? Never know but I am on the other side of the world, over here in AUS.

    Even if I have to have my convertor repaired an installed with 6 spacers added to it, and I will have them done with 1/2 inch holes threaded right through so there is thread all the way up to the flexplate, and use 6 1/2 grade 8 bolts.

    Hopefully TCI at least supply me another Started Motor and replacement FLexplate free of cost.

    I have also asked them if they will cover the costs of the floor pan and the convertor to be fixed up, don't like my chances but they did help me out previously when the order was stuffed up.

    Chad
     
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  6. Dave@ProBell

    Dave@ProBell New Member

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    Chad,
    I have Bruno-Drive Hemi bellhousings is stock. Along with Lenco-Drive & B&J Quick Drive bellhousings. Just need to know starter location. Have stock Chevy, Mopar & lower pass side mounting in stock.
    Dave@probellracing.com
     
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  7. Dave Koehler

    Dave Koehler Member

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    Just in case this has any bearing on the issue.
    I know firsthand how to elongate the holes in the flexplate and rip out the bolts.
    Dry hops/chirpies will do that in fairly short time.
    The cure?
    1: 6 Pads w 7/16 bolts (if you have to drill flexplate for larger bolts, machine for minimum bolt shank clearance.
    2: Tack a 4340 head stud washer to the flexplate to give it more thickness. (good idea anyway)
    3: Rotate convertor opposite of engine rotation before tightening the convertor bolts. (takes up any clearances. Also good practice for the flywheel bolts)
    or
    Don't do dry hops.

    Dave Koehler
    http://www.koehlerinjection.com
     
    #7

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