Bruno drive question?

I am new to the bruno's, And I want to find out what type of ATF are you guys using and why?

thanks again for all of the help

Butch

 

We use to use synthetic...had the problem of it creeping while on the 2step. Bruno said run regular atf, like dextron/mercon III. Now that's what we run. So far so good!

Josh

 

We've used nothing but Redline Racing ATF with no problems. We are going to try their new Lightweight Racing ATF this year but we haven't made it out yet so no reports on it. From what I understand it is supposed to dissipate heat better. I have heard people say that synthetic fluids can be too slippery but I've never seen any evidence of this. We had a problem with our car creeping while on the brake but we determined that it was not the brake slipping it was just the car rolling due to other factors. While on the trans brake with a Bruno there is nothing to stop the car from rolling unless you have some type of wheel brake pressure input. We put a line lock on the front and have never had a problem since. I have heard some guys will just hold a little pressure on the brake system themselves while staged.

Joad Donnelly

 

Talk to Rod @ Spec-Rite Torque Converters he is the Bruno guru in my opinion. He has a couple pro mods running in the 5's with Bruno's

 

we have run bruno,s for 10 years and we have tries everything in them and the bruno unit really does not care what fluid you run in it and it will work fine. now we use fluids depending on the heat and converter we have run regular ATF to tractor hyd 20wt the bruno will work the same.

 

We run a Bruno and have been using mobli 1 synthetic but we are having a problem with it overheating and cooking the oil What do you use to cool the bruno during a run?

 

hot

the big brt pan will make a huge difference on heat

 

Bruno Sr. told me straight F-type, said that synthetics were too slippery to hold the trans-brake drum. I've run F and tractor hydraulic oil both with no problems. I guess a lot depends on how much bottom end power and how high you're staging, as to whether the transbrake will hold. I also don't understand some statements about the brake not holding the car still and needing a line lock also. My car locks solid with the trans-brake, does that have something to do with type of tranny/sprag or whatever. I'm running CS-2 3-speed behind a 557 KB, usually only staging 2500-2800 though. Just curious.

 

Make sure you investigate the tractor or hydraulic fluids. Most have frictional modifiers in them. So if your having a slippage problem, check the specs closely.

Red Lines new Lighweight Racing ATF was developed for the super fast compact turbo trans. Because they spooled up so long on the starting line they were burning up trans. Per Red Line marketing director (spoke with him) the new Lightweight actually runs cooler and all but eliminated trans burn outs. I was concerned about the viscosity, but he said it was no issue.
I know the Red Line Racing Synthetic type 'F' ATF is about the best stuff I have found out there.

Blessings........Ron Clevenger

 

X2

Spec-Rite is building a deep pan also if you don't want to deal with Mr Personality Bruno Sr......

 

Red Line Lightweight Racing ATF

We at Red Line have heard the same, that Bruno recommends Dex III but we wonder about that--that type of fluid has slipperiness built in! Synthetics aren't necessarily slippery, it's the friction modifier package that makes them slippery. You'd run a synthetic for its ability to deal with heat and you'd select a racing fluid that specifically left the slipperiness of a Dex III road car additive package out of the mix.

Our Racing ATF has always worked in these Bruno and Lencodrive converter setups since it's like a Type F, not slippery, and it's thicker for those that want a lot of torque from the converter. What we've learned from our development of the now-popular Lightweight Racing ATF, however, it that our road car technologies used for producing ultra thin yet stable fluid can be applied to racing. We specifically avoid adding slipperiness and we've never had a racer go back.

Note that thin fluids will loosen up your converter--working with Marty Chance, we learned that you can tighten up the converter more than you ever thought because the fluid used to be the problem. Guys are designing in converter stall for staging and to get to the powerband, yet getting the lockup they want downtrack to get as close to 1:1 as possible and gain MPH.

Other benefits are being able to turn the car around faster, not having to cool off the fluid. You can run this same batch for a long time. Big benefits of consistency for the bracket guys who often had too tight of a converter--now they don't turn the tire early on the run where the track is inconsistent.

Hope this helps,
Cameron Evans -- Red Line Oil

 

WWW.WOLFERACECRAFT.COM make a real nice deep aluminum pan, and also does some mods to the bruno to make it even better!

 

I am about to use mine for the 1st time, over here in Australia and was reccommended by Bruno to use a Caterpillar hydraulic oil 10w.

I have bought it, and apparently it is some kind of Trans Fluid that the use as Hydraulic oil also, its almost Clear so at least I will be able to tell if its burning, or something is going wrong I guess.

What oil do you guys put in the actual Lenco part, I was running a 30w mono grade oil, but was told to use this Same 10w hydraulic oil in the lenco also, not sure as so many different reccomendations.

Car is DYO Blown Alk Hemi, sedan, heavy at around 3100lbs, 451ci and about 1500hp, 19.5% Over on the Blower, plan is to launch off idle if possible.

 

Butch don't need anymore help,.........he beat us in the final round at Medford this weekend.

Good job Butch and crew..............Blessings........Ron Clevenger (Creekside Racing Ministry)

 

Bruno and thanks

All, thanks so much for the info about the bruno oil, it really helpped !!

Ron, It was great to be back and I hope to see you again in the finals at the August Race in Medford !!!


Thanks again from all of us at Stroupe racing !!!

Butch Stroupe

 

Bruno Cooling

What is the best way to cool the Bruno/convertor between rounds?

 

Not sure on the cooling, as Im about to use my Bruno for the 1st time this weekend..

Can anyone reccomend how to set the CONVERTOR pressure for a baseline, and when and how do I check it and set it?

I have 3200lb sedan,

Tube Twin rail Chassis

34.5 17 16 slicks on beadlocks

Car is very UN aerodynamic, a Large Square Box on Wheels Van.

3 speed Bruno

451 Blown alky Hemi 19% Over,running fairly LAZY, around 1400-1600hp

Plan is to launch from idle, as I run a DYO class over here in Australia, and need consistency, more so than flat out Quick times.Can run anywhere from 6.5-7.99 1/4mile.

Sorry for Hijacking the thread, but thought it was better than starting another on the SAME SUBJECT a few lines up.

Thanks in Advance, I have got so much info reading here from you guys

Chad

 

Chad,
Pressure needs to be minimum of 150 pounds at idle, according to Bruno, Sr. There is a plug next to the guage, with an allen head set screw underneath it, adjust in or out to get the desired pressure. Good luck.

Hines,
We took a small squirrel cage blower and fastened a short piece of flex gutter pipe that you can bend up or down and hold its shape, slap it underneath between rounds, a blue blower would work just as well, probably simpler, I just had the stuff laying around. If quick turn-arounds you probably need a cooler also.

 

Thanks alot..

Im looking forward to not Stuffing around with clutches...

No one else here in Australia Seems to run the Bruno, all have Lencodrives.

Lucky I can come here for info, and help.



Chad

 

Hey guys

How does the adjustment work with the convertor?

I put it in gear and tried to adjust to 150PSI at idle like was suggested, and winding all the way in, or all the way out didn't seem to make much difference.

Was always high, up around 220-250PSI.

I am going to purchase a new gauge, this week, but where should the lowest presure setting be, wound all the way in, tightening the spring behind the grub screw adjuster, or wound outwards, towards the Bolt with the O-Ring Seal.

Apart from being a bit Savage off the line, the Bruno was great.

Chad

Thanks in advance for taking the time to reply.