checking engine temp

OK;;not running cooling system on my engine;;how do i go about knowing when engine is warm enough to race and also how do i make sure not to get to warm..low budget so can't afford a datalogger;;what's other choises do i have?
don
badtoyzz racing

 

Oil temp , we run ours up to 180 degrees in the pits , and make sure its at that temp again on the start line.

 

Heat gun

You can also try one of these... Test different parts of eng, trans, tc ect $49

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...11189&creative=373489&creativeASIN=B001KYW2XI

 

I could never get a consistent reading with these types of guns. I think the aluminum heads were to reflective to get an accurate reading. I painted a flat black spot on the back of each head and it worked better.

I use the method Will described with the oil temp in the fittings by the filter.

 

Temps

We have a temp gun kinda like whats in the picture, but they are really picky when it comes to the reflectivity of your target, trying to get a reading on aluminium is like shooting in the dark, we pick up so much radiant heat from the headers it useless for taking head temps.

We do use it to shoot the headers, (they are dark grey) to get idle temps, it works fine for that.

For stuff like oil and head temps we use our hands, they are a wonderful tool.

 

ok;;;;ready to do some start-ups on my engine on a start-up stand i built..this is a 540bbc blown alcohol injected wet block and wet heads but running with no water or cooling system. most replys have been to use my oil temp as a guild to know when engine is warm enough to run down track..for now how do i make sure i don't run to long and get to hot on my engine start stand?
can i still use oil temp to montor it?if so then how high do i let my oil temp get to before i'm at a point i need to kill engine and let kool off?
on oil temp gauge;;can i use a electric oil temp gauge and could i put sensor in dart block[theres a pipe plug 1/2" directly above oil filter]?as of now don't want to pull pan off engine and weld sensor in it if i can keep from it.
thanks
don

 

Start Up

When I ran a wet block and heads (Chevy) it would take quite a while at an idle to even feel any heat in the heads at least 10-15 min or more of run time. We used to take the oil to around 160-180deg depending on ambient. I was always worried to over heat the engine also (I was green as the day is long but never hurt anything). You would be amazed at how long you need to run them with full fuel flow to built heat, plus the heat builds fairly slowly so don't worry about cooking anything. (little common sense will go a long way there)

My 2 cents

Corey

 

As stated above, I just use my hands. With the engine on a stand, you should be able to touch the oil pan. 140 to 160 degrees feels HOT to the touch, you can't hold your hand on it long, but its doesn't blister right away either. 180-200 will bring a blister pretty fast...... learned that the hard way..
As far as how long it will take to heat up the heads......completely depends on barrel valve adjustment. You can get the engine way hot before the oil is up to temp if your too lean.
Just my 2.

 

DO yourself a favor, put a engine block heater in your oil pan and warm your oil before firing it everytime. Very important to keep your engine oil up there. I dont start mine till its over 100 degrees period! more like 120*. If you dont have a Temp gauge get one. I take a reading on my cylinder heads on the inside (towards the intake) rear of the head. It will be a good idea to use these recordings to find what your tune up likes. Oil Temp between 160 and 180 degrees and cylinder head temp between 160 and 170 degrees for me but it will vary on every engine. BBC 509 is what I run but I ran lots of other combos as well. Good luck.

 

What sort of temperatures are people typically seeing AFTER a quarter mile run is done, non water heads? How big an issue is annealing of the aluminum from heat soak? Blown or nitrous?

 

Thats a darn good question. I bet it would play a bigger role in a water deal with no water than a solid head.

 

what do you use to take temp on heads?you said you read temp on heads with temp gauge..i thought you had to have water[fluild]for a temp gauge to work..i'm running no water in heads or block..i'm going to run oil temp gauge in pan but wanted to do i few start-ups on stand and wanted to wait till ready to put engine in car before doing oil temp..plus being told i needed i bigger pan[running 7 qt. wet sump now]so want to wait on oil temp and pan heater until i go with bigger pan if thats needed..

 

I have a Computech Computor with heat sensors. 7qt I would not run,but thats me. I'm sure you will hear all sorts of differences on the pan size. Rather than do all this stuff when its in the car, why not do it right the first time and be done with it? If this is a street engine and not runnning on the track have at it. If you are going to run on the track and want performance and not just wine noise, do it right. I run a water block and water heads with no water as well. Blown alky tune up will be greatly effected by your heat in the engine or lack off. It depends on what you are trying to do I quess.

 

i'll be doing pan mods before goes into car..my income is very limited being on disabilty and just got out of machine shop having the aluminum rods put in so can't afford to do the pan at this time but would like to start on stand and get a few bugs repaired first[had couple fuel leaks and high idle on first start-up so like to repairs this while i'm getting money together for new pan/heater/oil temp upgrades]won't see street at all anymore..when first started build it was a show/strip build but have now decided race only..to much money into it to waste on street and shows..can't afford computter system so hoping to find other ways to do it..

 

For a cheap and quick temp read, (if you want fairly specific numbers) go to a wood stove shop and get a smokestack temp gauge and put it on the back of the cylinder heads. You will be able to get a fair reading of each bank (close to exhaust on one side and close to intake on other) of head temp. I do the "feel the oil pan and Oberg filter fitting" and am used to a certain temp by feel. I have used the electronic temp readers and found if you get them too close to the mags, they short out and are ruined (according to manufacturer of the two we used when they first came out a few years ago--no warranty and costly). BBC, Bowtie block on one and World block on other, Brodix solid heads on both and no water. I like to heatsoak motor a half hour before competition. Granted, I tractor pull the two 540's, but I have the same combo in a 496 RED (BBC truck block) and follow the same routine. Just my penny's worth. JW