loose flywheel

I am running a 565 bbc with a 14-71 blower, after having a new motor built and making 3 passes my flywheel bolts were loose. I use a mezeire pro billet w/ mr gasket bolts. They were all torqued and had red loc tite. I replace the flywheel with a new one along with new arp bolts. As instructions said I used moly lube and torqued these bolts. I made 1 full pass and bolts fell completely out on 2nd pass. I am at my wits end on this. Any help would be appreciated. The only good suggestion I have gotten was from arp, they said to loc tite and safety wire some new bolts in place. I just don't want to put a band aid on it. The six torque convertor bolts always stay tight and I do use an alignment pin. I have noticed sparks from the flywheel rubbing the mid plate. I don't run a spacer. Could this be the problem?

 

Are the sparks from the flexplate rubbing the midlpate or could it be the ring gear hitting the starter gear? We switched from the moly arp bolts (100# w/ red loctite) and went to the L19 Top Fuel Flywheel Bolt (170# w/ red loctite). The L19 Bolt, at the same torque setting, has 45-50x the strength. Call ARP and tell them the bolt you have and you want it in an L19 material. I would def. find out what's rubbing as any harmonics like that will make things come loose quicker and right now the bolts are the weakest link....better bolts you may just break the whole flexplate. The only flexplate which doesn't need a spacer and pilot bushing/insert is the DMPE (that I've seen). My DMPE sits .220" closer to the midplate than a Reactor or a CSR.

Brandon Booher
NHRA TAD #34

 

Are there other signs in the engine of detonation?

 

Flywheel

Have you checked the threads in the back of your crank shaft? If the threads are not cut to the correct fit, or they are getting oversized (stretched) they won't hold the torque of the fastener. The loctite should have held everything tight, thats the only part that has me scratching my head.

Just a thought

Corey

 

Flywheel bolts coming loss

Wilman, I had the same issue for some time on our set up, I was able to make a tool that I can check the flywheel bolts between rounds with out having to pull the trans and what we found is after 7 or 8 passes they would take a set and would not back off any more.
If you have a converter that is closed on the flywheel side and you can not get to the fylwheel bolts, The only thing that worked for our program was We increased the size of the flywheel to crank bolts to 1/2 inch from the 7/16 and us the 1/2 inch ARP top fuel flywheel L-19 bolts , and then increasing the torque to 170, with the hi strength locktite, and on the head of the bolt put a small amount of the ARP bolt lube so the bolt and the flywheel do not have any issues, it gives you a better pull on the threads, just make sure the lube does not get on the threads with the locktite!!!

Good luck

Butch

 

green loctite

had the small issues....green (sleeve) loctite fixed it.

 

fly me wheel

just a stupid question, but do you still have the factory type dowel that locates the flywheel? I had the same problem that if the dowel isnt there, the flywheel will rock itself loose, and also the obvious if the bolts are the flywheel bolts tf style with a shoulder on them for the flywheel area with loctite also.

 

Never run it with out the dowel !!! when you us the 1/2 inch TF bolts, yes you still us the dowel, and you have to adjust the shoulder depth of the bolts so it is the same thickness as the flywheel, The bolts are really hard, you need to get a real good dia to make it work.

I hope that helps

Butch

 

Thanks for the info guys. This has been a real pain in the a#s. For a little rebuttle to questions asked to me. There are no signs of detonation, I do run the alignment dowel, and you can see where the flywheel is rubbing the mid plate at launch. No sign of hitting starter. I have not checked to pitch of the threads in the crankshaft. The bolts arp told me about that they have are l-19 with the holes drilled in them. I guess I will try them with loc tite, safety wire and install the spacer. Thanks again.

 

From the mid plate to the mounting side (converter side) I'm .915" out. If you install a spacer on the flexplate you'll need to check pilot engagement/location into the crankshaft; as well as runout on the neck so you don't damage the pump. If the converter is further out the neck or pads may have to be modified to keep engagement into the trans the same.

Brandon Booher
NHRA TAD #34