liner wheels help wanted

Discussion in 'PSI Superchargers Tech Questions' started by badbird, Apr 5, 2011.

  1. badbird

    badbird New Member

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    ok I have my new weld liner wheels with hoosier liners and tubes i was also supplied with some wheel valves

    what do i do now
    it seems like i need to drill the wheel for the other valve but if i drill oppoiste the existing hole as i read you should the other valve ends up inside the liner under the tube so how does this inflate the slick?? what did i get wrong?

    any help or advice appreciated

    graham
     
    #1
    badbird, Apr 5, 2011
  2. Will Hanna

    Will Hanna We put the 'inside' in Top Alcohol
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    specs

    Drill opposite of the normal stem.

    7/8" inside the bead.

    "I" drill bit

    5/16-24 tap.

    If you notice the sides of your liners are slotted. With the valve stem positioned here, the air will go between the tire bead and the liner to air up the outer slick.

    With the new weld wheels, you should be able to run without the tube if you want to save weight. You just have to change liners about every 25-30 runs because they won't hold pressure anymore and start to equalize. The liners are still fine to run with tubes for much longer, but they seem to only be good for that many runs holding pressure.
     
    #2
    Will Hanna, Apr 5, 2011
  3. redwhite

    redwhite New Member

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    I also am setting up liners and tubes for the first time on a set of older Alumastar's. Is there a write up somewhere on how to do it right? What steps should I take to reduce the P.I.T.A factor?
     
    #3
    redwhite, Apr 5, 2011
  4. Will Hanna

    Will Hanna We put the 'inside' in Top Alcohol
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    tubeless

    It should be noted that the newer welds that are designed to run tubeless are usually the only ones you can get to hold air without a tube.

    They are a pain in the ass to mount and even more with a tube because you are putting a 15" tube on a 16" wheel.

    You also need to mark the tire and wheel to keep track of how much it is moving on the wheel. We usually rotate every 3-4 passes to keep the tire close to the mark where it was last balanced.

    When at all possible (same with beadlocks) spin balance instead of bubble balance.

    If you don't have the right tube, or sometimes things just need to be moved, if you have to put a heap of weight to get it to balance, sometimes the tire needs to be rotated 180, or too big of a tube is in it and it's bunched up. If spin balancing, also look at the runout of the wheel. Bent wheels don't balance real well on a spin balancer.
     
    #4
    Will Hanna, Apr 6, 2011
  5. blown1969camaro

    blown1969camaro Member

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    liners

    FYI i currently have a new set of pro mod latest greatest set of weld linner wheels
    they are knurrled

    without tubes they leak through the high side tryes to equal to the low side
    this is very annoing
    i gave up and got tubes

    (even put half can fix flat in each side )wich stoped the problem for that race then that week when i went to change them they were leaking again

    hoosier told me that every time i change slicks i need to change liners
    the liners do take a beating on the knearl so i do see their point
     
    #5
    blown1969camaro, Apr 6, 2011

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