Starter ideas

I run a high torque mini starter on my car but it doesn't have quite enough when the motor is cold. It says it's a 4.41:1 reduction but no motor rating.It's always started but struggles. We use a single Optima red top in the car but will be pulling it out and going to a quick connect plug and cables so I can do a battery pack instead. I wish I could run a different starter but that's all I can get to fit. Should I use to 12 volt batteries at 12 volts or wire them to 24? Single 16 volt?

Motor specs:
Blown alcohol BBC,500ci,11:1,14-71,MSD pro mag 20,
Proform part#67050 mini starter,1 red top optima,168 tooth flexplate
TAFC chassis

I have been running this combo for 4 seasons and it works decent but struggles on cold start ups in the mornings. I have a spare starter because I thought Proform was not that great of quality but it's never been used.

 

Maybe you would be happy (for several reasons) adding a oil pan heater.

 

starting

You need to heat that oil.!!!!!!!!!!!! It scares me to think someone starts it up with out pre heating. There is no reason for it. Parts are alot happier. Don

 

Battery Issues

You are doing the same conversion I plan to do this winter, I was just going to hit the starter with 24 volts and be done with it. CSR has a starter with 24 volt capabilities if you are worried about cooking the 12 volt solinoid.

I ran the 2-12 volt batts wired for 12 volts, you get the same cranking speed as one 12 volt battery but you can crank longer. The 24 volt deal damn near doubles your cranking speed. The latter is the better way to go IMO

my 2 cents

Corey

 

I do pre heat my oil. I have a Moroso heater on it

 

I wish that CSR starter would fit I would order one. I'll try hitting mine with 24v to see what is does. I wonder how much better a 16v would be over the 12v?

 

Starter Issues

I've had this conversation with a number of people regarding the longevity of a 12 volt starter if you are hitting it with 24 volts, and I haven't ever heard that you will cook them. The increased cranking speed most times will offset the potential damage because you apply the higher voltage for a lot less time. Besides if you are building a battery pack anyways just go to the 24 volts over the 16 for the extra cranking speed. IMO

Corey

 

put a meziere 24v starter on it. trying to run 24v thru a 12v solenoid will fry it. i run a 481x and the meziere works perfectly. it is worth the cost. the csr requires a box that is expensive and makes their deal more costly than a new meziere 24v starter. awb

 

starter

Mezerie all the way. Mezerie starter + billet flex plate, 2 12 volt small batterys from G- Force.at 24 volts spins mine over like there is no plugs in it. Motor is 452 in. brad -6 , Kebelco @ 40 0ver.

 

This is only if you plan on taking batteries down the track with the car. I think Mac is considering the sdame thing I am, loosing the batts from the car and using an external battery pack with quick connects. As far a frying the solinoid I'm not 100% convinced it will fry it (at least not instantly). I'm going to attempt it, if it fries I will be the first to come back on here and say I was wrong.

Corey

 

it's real simple.....use exactly what you have, and hook 24 volts to it. all your problems will go away. we have ran our car this way for many years with no problems what so ever. we have owned 2 starters in the last 15 years with no problems. you don't need to buy a special solenoid, step down unit, or any other fancy gizmos. i use a CVR starter on our car, and they are around $200 through the yellow monster. hope this helps
Darren

 

Starter

Mike Dunn has designed a mini starter that was designed for big block / blown applications. I have a roots blower and a 44 mag, spins my motor as fast as if I had a snout starter. It's called a "Mean Green". His # is 417-967-0528

 

Any thoughts on running a 12v and 6v battery in series(theoretically making 18v)? - We run outlaw 10.5 and are required to be 3000lbs, thus no reason to give up having two batts in the car just to add ballast back to make weight.

I was thinking of switching one of the optima yellows for a 6v and wiring it in series to up the voltage. - I believe if I keep the otima grounded, tie it's positive to the 6v's negative, then run the 6v's positive post through the switch and too the starter, I could also tap back off the positive post on the optima and run it through the small posts on the disconnect switch(4 post alt dis-connect type switch) and keep 12v for my accessories(guages, timers, lights, etc).


All that said, this post makes me think about just running the two optima's as 24v to the starter and still using one batt to feed 12v through the other side of the switch for the accessories.

 

Run the 24 volts. I do it with 2 small 12 volt lawn mower batteries. I have fired up as many as 16 times in one day and the batteries never even seemed to lose anything. Its a 526 kb hemi veney littlefield 50 something % over. i hope that helps.

 

Battery

The 6 volt and 12 volt would give you the 18volts, but I don't think you would gain much from that arragment because 6 volt batts are not known for thier cranking amps if that is what you are looking for. IMO.


Corey

 

Hey Tavis
i have gone through all the ideas for starting my new car, and came up with the idea of 2 batteries starting on 24 volts but still having my 12 volt system for computer etc, yes CSR has a fancy switch box to do just that, but almost every tractor on the road has a series parallel switch which does just what we need it to, give me a call or email me if you want the info or part number i also have a wiring diagram drawn up for this system.
Simon

 

I have run many blown alcohol cars with a 44 (and even 70 wt oil and never a heater) for the last 13 years Trust me any good high torque 12V starter (that is installed at the right depth) will last with 24V and your troubles are over cranking your car, put 2 in the trunk and wire your accessories off first one for 12V if you can use the weight and if not we use a quick plug like a fuel car starter and put 2 batteries on a cart all cranking problems solved I promise.
Billy
and interstate batteries sales a 12V 11lb about $59 battery like in a jump box it works grate to for running your 12V stuff if you need a part # I can get it

 

Been doing two 12 volts (series, not paralell=24 volts)for years on an NA alky motor (big compression)and a blown alky 500" BBC with a mini starter from an outfit in Texas (Pro Starter or Pro, I think). The only thing I ever had to do was clean up the contacts in the solenoid every once in a while. A lot of blown mod tractor pullers use this method. If you don't trust mini starters, get a special one made for the job at your local starter rebuilder. Also, having the smaller tooth flywheel will give more engine RPM's per starter RPM's which helps speed up mag, etc. Just my experience. JW

 

I tried running the 24 volt deal with my car.I only started it a few times and it stuck the solenoid on my tilton HD starter.Went back to 12 volts parallel.It also stuck my 12 volt kill switch so I couldnt stop the starter from zinging till I unhooked the terminals.Gonna try the 16 volt turbo start batterys next.

 

Thanks. - The lawn mower battery idea is interesting as well, though I would think that too would offer a notably lower available cranking amperage.

With two batts I'm right around 3020lbs, which is fine for our 10.5 stuff, but I'm allowed to be 2900 when we run the nitrous combo in another program.