BBC blocks

We have always been under the impression that a block with deep skirts and cross bolted main caps is the way to go (like a New Century or KB Olds), but...

If I have a motor that has walking main caps and if you could change just the block to the above, would that go away?

We are looking to save weight and we were convinced to do a deep skirt block, but now I see Dart has a billet forged block which does not have deep skirts. If I'm walking main caps now in a cast iron Big M will that Dart alum be any better?

 

Cap Walk

For the most part , Detonation causes evidence of welded caps (cap walk) .
Utilizing an Aluminum Block in conjunction with Aluminum caps will help by providing more "cushion" than steel or iron caps !
The crank will live longer without cracking as well .
As far as using a flat bottom block ??
Well , You figure it out ,
The cylinders fire at 90' to the crank , will main caps w/ no side skirts (web) afford the same support as a block with a HEMI type bottom ??
The RODECK block was like the block you speak of , Not overly pleasant to MAINS , in a high cyl' pressure environment !!

One Nitro team is using a block similar to the Brodix , you speak of , but has relatively few runs on it !!

 

we have used a Donovan block , and wished it was deeper for the ease of taking the pan off. We used a split pan with ease. We had a rod go recentley and didnt have any block damage , but did have some repairable pan damage , I cant help thinking the block wouldnt have escaped if it had been deeper.

6.69 210 in 2700lb door car 1.01 sixty

www.luckydevil777dragracing.com

 

youd be right Wayne the hemis realy hurt the blocks when they go we had a rod go in a chevy and it survived

 

We ran a Rodeck and a GM block with splayed caps...they all rattled at higher hp. The KB olds has massive 9/16 studs and big sidebolts so it does a LOT better. Anything i've run that makes big power-N20 or blown alky seems to transfer a little metal when leaned on hard.

Mike

 

I run a Miner Bros. motor with a 4-7 swap cam. Seems to be easier on the #2 main than the standard cam. Can anyone confirm this?

Dale

 

Blocks

With all due respect ; The goal sought is to contain the CRANK not broken rods

However , should the the rod politely OPEN a WINDOW on the way out , it's a good deal more pleasant .

The side skirts are designed both to support the mains & let the rods out when they want out !!

 

Billet crank

I've found that a billet crank will help to reduce cap walk and metal transfer on the flat fottom chevy style blocks (less flex), if i was buying a new chevy block i would go with the cross bolted style.