Bruno pics

Pump broke in our Bruno unit, didn't know it, did a burnout, vented fluid out. Here's what the case looks like. We think it's electrolysis. Just fyi incase anyone experiences this. Called Bruno, he said he's never sold a case nor had a request for one. Guess we'll just fix it.

Josh

 

bruno pitcures

what does steel front pump plate look like?

 

What did the shim/backside/pump plate (whatever its called) look like? Any metal transfer (doubtful since it's steel) or discoloration? Not sure I know exactly what goes on with electrolysis. Is that a chemical/heat activated reaction?

 

Beat me to it 85, guess I type too slow......

 

Plate is bad too, scarred more than anything. Maybe slightly distorted. No aluminum on the plate though, I don't think. I beleive this was due to out lack of grounds. The starter is seeing 24volts and must have voltage going through the bendix, then it try's to ground in the trans.

 

I had to dedicate a ground to the air dump solenoid, the one with the teflon plunger after I got shocked one time adjusting it laying on the ground under the car. My electrical knowledge basically consist of tightening a ground wire on a magneto, so I don't know if that info is of any help, but since you're running an on board starter with a twin battery setup, (I assume) I suppose you have a fair amount of current flowing through the various components. I use a blower starter so the only battery I carry is a small ATV battery for the transbrake and shiftlite. I actually had mine apart at Indy Goodguys last weekend (separate issue...)and didn't have anything on my case that looks like that.

 

That is not electrolysis. That is from something rubbing against it. you can see were material has been moved. If it were electrolysis it would just be pitted and there would be a powdery looking white substance on the matreial. This looks like some debris got between the case and whatever sits next to it. Would that be the torn up pump plate? It appears there are some copper or brass shavings in the hole where the meterial has moved.

If these to mating surfaces are not supposed to move against each other I would carefully sand and file the high spots off and put it back together. Any welding on the case could distort it. A good machine shop could also turn the surface flat again. If they take too much off it could create clearance stacking issues.

 

They're not, thats what's confusing me about this.......Fly, is there any evidence the convertor ballooned or the snout too long and pushing the pump gears back into the plate? How much distance between the convertor and flexplate before you bolt them up?

 

Just thought of something else....the inner gear of the pump, the tangs are supposed to be to the rear, if the gear got turned around so that the tangs are closer to the convertor, I'd be willing to bet thats what pushed the gear into the plate.

 

I think there was about 1/4" play when the converter was bolted up. Marty @ Neal Chance Converter's had us measure everything before he made our converter. I wish I had my camera tonight, found some interesting things on the pump body. It looks like little balls of solder down in the gear area of the pump. I thought it was debris (which could be) but they wouldn't move. They were actually welded, if you will, to the pump body. Probably the aluminum that you see in the pics. Don't you think there was some arcing going on in there? We definately don't have enough grounds. Our chassis is powder coated and the motor plates rest against it w/ no metal exposed except through the bolt holes.

 

Ronny that's a good point but they were in correctly. The plate doesn't show wear like you get when you "load" a pump or stack the converter on top of the pump gears. We run a transmission shop here so we've seen our share of "loaded" pumps. : )

 

I suppose its entirely possible, although as I mentioned earlier, I have a real mental block about the propertys of electrical components. I got shocked holding the solenoid while crewguy pressed the transbrake button, even though it was screwed into the air piston manifold with the locknut tight, would have thought that was plenty of ground for the connection but wasn't.
Wound up making a ground wire held tight with a radiator clamp around the solenoid body, tied to a motorplate stud, a makeshift deal but it worked. Would think a powder coated chassis could present some problems with grounds.........

 

Oil pump failier

You said pump blew up. Ck leading edge of cresent in pumpif it has a sharp edge it will sometimes catch the sun gear and break the ring gear we cut a 1/8 in radius on leading edge of creasent we broke 2 pumps to find this out this does not affect oil pressure we still have 175 psi at rpm

 

Front pump

I run a tranny shop and some fords and gm use a steel plate against the bellhousing just like the bruno, when the pump brakes the heat from the gears melt the alum on the bellhousing and looks just like this.

Dave Sharp
Sharps Transmission
1 800 229 6549