external starter battery for promod

We want to ditch the big 12volt batteries and use a single 24V external pack to start the car with the block mounted starter. Maybe use a little motorcycle battery to run the car electronics. I think it's pretty common in ADRL. Any suggestions on batteries or what works good for a quick disconnect plug from the starter. We're not really weight conscious enough to use the cordless drill battery and don't have the budget for a blower starter setup.

Thanks,
Mike

 

Use 2 standard batteries in series and get some anderson plugs(red connectors) like RCD uses. Some #1 wire and you are set to go.
Star racing sells a cordless batter mount for use with a Milwaukee battery to run your electronics

 

I use the Milwaukee battery for my electronics and I love it! I htink I got the mount from Quartermax. I run 48 volt for my blower starter by using 4 Walmart lawnmower batteries.

 

I use a small sealed battery like would be used for a backup for a household alarm system or an emergency light in a commercial building. I got the battery at Batteries plus for 30.00 and a trickle charger for 15.00. Since it is sealed vibration won't kill it.

 

I was looking at the Milwaukee battery and when I checked the one in my shop it checked 19.4 V RacePac said don't go over 18V But you are saying that it will work Fine? My only other question was we run a Bruno is this battery strong enough to handle the Bruno trans brake with the 2 solenoids on the starting line Thanks

 

I run an Autometer instead of a Racepac. The Milwaukee runs my Lencodrive TB, taillight, 6 shooter, tach, data logger and delay box. I change it every run.

 

been using my 18 volt for almost 3 years hasnt hurt the racepak

 

We run a lencodrive and had Dave Leahy make one of his batteries suit our needs. It's like 2lbs., runs all the electronics, and has enough power for the transbrake. Our Racepak is self contained so you'd have to talk to Dave and make sure the power supply was great enough. Regardless, great setup and Dave is a super guy to deal with.

Brandon Booher
NHRA TAD #44

 

Overkill69,

My ProMod came with two Optima 12 volt batteries mounted in the back of the car. I removed these batteries to save weight and had a remote battery pack wired in series for 24 volts. I installed one Interstate 12 volt battery, 7 AMP, from a snow mobile to run the electronics, lights, MSD. Being for a snow mobile it is sealed and made to handle vibration. Survived tire shank also. This 12 volts runs a remote starter solenoid and the starter solenoid for starting the car with the 24 volt battery pack. The 24 volts only goes to the starter motor thru the remote solenoid. The 12 volt battery ran three solenoids, (trans brake, throttle lunch, MSD ignition) MSD ignition computer, data computer, and lights after dark. I could run this combination two days without charging and did, but I would try and charge the morning of the second day. The battery pack can be charged with a standard 12 volt charger by charging each battery by itself or purchase a 24 volt charger. I ran this combination for a couple of years then the organization required self starting and added weight to the class. I now have two 12 volt batteries back in the car, but I am using a battery similar to the RCD started packs. A little bigger, but they have no problem starting and running the car for a full day. Charge the batteries, using a 24 volt charger, in the morning of the second day just to make sure. The remote started solenoid, I think, is out of a Ford truck or car, where they had the starter solenoid not mounted on the starter or it’s a 24+ volt solenoid. Mine came with the car and I have not changed it. This may sound confusing on the wiring, but is very simple. I can provide a sketch of how I wired this set up. Still have this battery holder for sale, used two Optima batteries, (not included) battery cables with 0 or #1 cables, Anderson connectors.


Mack