Things to watch out for?

I am getting ready to go back together with the engine I recently purchased, and thought this might be an opportunity to create a really useful thread that would help some of us newer guys. This is not my first engine, but it is my first hemi, as such, I'm sure there are alot of little tips, tricks and advice that many of you have learned the hard way over the years that could help me and others like me avoid unnecessary cursing, tool-throwing, and check writing.

If you guys can respond to this thread with pieces of advice you would give one of your friends who was just starting out, it will add up quick, and become a great reference.

-Scouder

 

To get this thing rolling (I hope), I'm gonna post the first tip.

Check everything! Trust nobody!

I was assured that my engine, a 511 KB (represented to me as a 526), was fresh rebuilt 12 runs ago, ready to go to the track. Well, thankfully, I'm a pretty thorough person, and I decided to tear it down to change the rods and have the crank checked. First thing I find is a galled crank hub, then a twisted bearing. After that it's a phone call from Henry Velasco saying the crank was so badly cracked he was afraid it would fall apart when he took it out of the Mag fixture.

So, my advice is when you buy used stuff, pay to have it checked PRIOR to the sale. If it doesn't pass, then you are out alot less than the cost of replacing expensive parts, and waaaayyyy less than the cost of picking them up off the track.

-Scouder

 

Check every main in the block for size variations before and after bearings. Check every hole for clearance and roundness. Deck height, crank journals, thrust, etc. Check all the little things like cam timing, coil bind on the head, rocker geometry, and those types of things. Just like stated before, don't trust that it is right because it is together or running. Inspect everything.
I promise you that when it is together and running well you will never say; "Darn, I know way too much about the inside of this engine."

 

Personally, I like numbering everything except the pushrods in the engine. Lifters all go back in the same holes, same with valves, rockers, rods, pistons and heads. That is if there still useable. That way I can track everything to a cylinder for reference.

Blessings.........Ron Clevenger.

 

hi anybody here willing to do a how to video on tear down, inspection of all parts and block, along with putting the engine back together, as well as setting it up. willing to pay for it. thx rob mudd_bugger@hotmail.com

 

This is precisely the type of stuff I was hoping to get you guys to talk about. The more the better. Keep it coming!

-Scouder

 

Clean, Clean, Clean. Check all threads very close. Make sure all your surfaces are flat no burs or high spots. Check all oil passages. Be sure no fasteners bottom out. Allways use some Antiseeze or the like in aluminum. Did I mention clean clean clean again. Some dog hair is ok if it is a shop dog LOL will end up in filter.
All very basic stuff here but over looked by many

 

some of the nicest push rod, valves,pistons/rods ect organizer's is from Dave at cebe

 

When installing shims for cam shaft end play on a BAE the thicker shims go towards the torington bearing.

 

I am new to this myself and I would say one place that the Hemi was different from most other motors I had worked on, was in the valve gear.

If you have not read it on the board yet, its always a good idea to lube all the valve train prior to every start. Some only do it on the first start of the day (and that certainly is the most important) but I figure if you have the covers off anyway why not do it every time. Some like to use assembly lubes like the Manton ultra gel or Torco MPZ others use 70w in a pump can with a flexible spout. If you don't use something religously you can count on burnt pushrod ends and worn out rockers and valve stem ends.

Another thing is that if you are in the habit of adjusting your valves so that a feeler gauge drags slightly between the valve and rocker, you will need push on the end of the rocker to preload the pushrod and lifter otherwise the oil in the clearances may give you a false reading.

Like with any motor, record changes in valve lash so that you note any changes before parts breakage occurs.

 

So, aside from the pushrod cup, what else gets lubed?

-Scouder

 

Whatever you do, don't tell a pro stock racer that you don't matter where the pushrods come out of. He may take a rubber hose and beat you with it.
And for lube, minimum, hit the bottom and top of the pushrod between the cups and the balls for sure.

 

Something I learned in here from Mike Canter, you may already know it.

When you put the thrust bearings in, dont just tighten the caps down, make sure the two halves are lined up together. I do it by smacking the rear of the crank with a dead blow hammer, when they settle together the tone changes, and your clearance gets a little bigger.


I went throught thrust bearing hell last year and after asking a bunch of questions in here finally got it figured out that we were doing a bunch af shit wrong.

 

How much torque do you have on the bolts when you smack it?

-Scouder

 

Thanks Mike. That's an excellent description. I've got to clean all my oil journals and give the block one last cleaning and I'll be ready to bolt the crank back in. So I'll be using your procedure soon.

-Scouder

 

we are starting to make a few products that might help make life better when working on your pride and joy. stankemotorsports.com

 

Thrust bearing

In regards to the thrust bearing.
Some engine builders and tractor manuals (like AllisChalmers ect) apply forward psi to the crank (pushing the crank forward) while tightening the thrust cap. The thought is that the thrust psi will likely be in that direction so this makes sure that particular side of the thrust bearing is flush with each other.