How to restrip a blower?

I need to freshen up my blower and wanted to know if this is something that the average racer could do. The only real thing that would hold me back was fear of screwing up something that could result in damaging a very expensive part.

I know that you need some gear pullers, but asides from that I've never had a blower apart.

If it ends up being something user friendly it would be helpful to know how to do it so I can keep it fresh rather than running this thing like I have for the last bunch of years without freshening it up. Plus I plan to have the motor dyno'd and want everything fresh for the best results so I can tune for it going away instead of trying to guess when it's fresh.

 

Here's a couple of threads that helped me figure it out.

http://www.insidetopalcohol.com/showthread.php?t=20996&highlight=strip

http://www.insidetopalcohol.com/showthread.php?t=14786&highlight=strip

 

watch your timing...dave

 

The most common error I see is that, when re-assembled, the rotor are swapped from side to side. The blower will still usually turn over, and even run, but not very well. Looking from the front of the blower, the rotor on the right always twists to the right (from front to back), the rotor on the left always twists to the left.

Before taking the gears off, make sure you scratch or center punch a mark on the mating teeth of the gears, two teeth on one gear and one tooth on the other. Make sure also that when you put it back together, these marks line up. Also if there is a master spline, make sure it is fully aligned to the appropriate groove in the gear, and is not at tooth off. If there is no master spline, you must align the pre-stamped marks on the gear and the end of the rotor. It is really easy to be a tooth off on these, make sure you check it again after the gear is on all the way.

The white strips aren't too hard to replace, just take the screws out that hold the teflon in the rotor, file any sharp edges or protrusions in the slot, and pull the new teflon in. When re-installing the screws, make sure they are lined up so you don't strip the threads, you might even have to scallop a small piece of teflon to make sure the screw starts straight. Tighen firmly.

The black strips can be very difficult, and you need to turn them down to size after installing them. It would be best if someone that has done it before guides you through the process, or maybe just send the blower back to the manufacturer once a year to get this done.

 

yea what Ken said, also take a picture with the front cover off so you can see all the markings on the gears. The memory fades but the picture doesn't.

 

which case?.....

just a friendly tip: If there is a blower shop or racer in your area that has roots blowers, make an afternoon of it, get a case of your favorite barley pops, and show up blower and beer in hand. It is very easy once you have seen it done.

1. Push the rotors out the back of the case!!!!. I don't know what kind of case you have but if it's a Retro Pie opening type case, getting the gear plate back on if you pull it off is a nightmare! Never distrub the front gear plate! Your blower will last years longer.

With your front cover off, use the same bolts with washers to hold the gear plate on while you push the rotors out the back.

2. Freeze your teflon. It pulls much better. Pull all the whites and let them sit over night. You have stretched them as you pulled them through. They will compress back in if you let them sit for a while.

Note: light pressure with finger at leading edge of rotor holding the teflon down as you pull the vice grip holding the teflon with the other. Cut your teflon long in case it pulls up out of the groove. If you have enough strip left you can just keep pulling.

3. Next day cut off the whites leaving about an inch on each side. Take a hammer and tap (I said tap) the ends into the rotor. Final cut with razor blade at end of rotor after holding screw is replaced.

Good luck. It's not hard at all. Just take your time.

Kevin Hool

 

Great info, thanks for the replies... not sure what route I'll take but probably for this time have it done professionally so they can check everything out and make sure all is good since it's been ran for a few years without service.

btw, it's a SSI D rotor HHR 10