squaring motor in chassis

Who makes a tool to make sure my motor is sitting inline with the rear end. I would prefer some kind of lazer. Motor is BBC, funny car chassis.
Thanks,
Adam

 

I used this Mark Williams tool on my Ford 9" and it worked great.

 

I think Kurt or Bob should answer this one. Of course you both have a jig set up.

 

You really do need to use an alignment bar, for any "solid" driveshaft application. If you were really careful you could get away without one, but it would take allot of precise measuring. Also this way, it kind of makes it almost impossible to "mount" anything. I have quickly checked the alignment in cars that were questionable, however you would need to have the "complete" driveline in the car to do this.

 

i had a new car come frome the chassis shop and the motor didnt line up when i put the drive shaft in so other than the alignment bar and taking every thing back apart i reworked the mounts till the drive lined up with the couplers sliding freely on the drive shaft and transmission but hell im just a bodyman

 

I have everything in the car, I had to make up a new midplate because mine cracked. I also had a flywheel come apart and take out a piece of the lower frame rail. I got that all fixed and I copied my other midplate and when I put it in the car the right rear of the motor seems like it shifted and there is a gap between the body and firewall/midplate now. I did find a laser setup last night but don't know if it would tell me exactly what I need. I also thought I could get a straight 2.75" bar and bolt it up into the mains on the motor and go back to the rear end to check the alignment.

 

When I started my car (S&W TAFC chassis) I used a length of exhaust tube bolted into the main saddles of the block and going back to the rear. I made a 'guide' out of a piece of solid about 10" long, machined square and a real snug fit inside the exhaust tube. Welded it into the pinion housing. Machined the gasket area on the pinion housing to make sure it was square to the axle before bolting it into the diff housing.

It allowed me to remove and refit the block as much as I wanted during the chassis build, as the exhaust tube just slips over the guide sticking out of the pinion housing. It also made it easy to determine how low I could mount the seat (the exhaust tube was pretty much the same diameter as the driveshaft cover).

The driveshaft slips together and falls apart real easy

 

align with no tooling

Get a laser pen and a wad of modeling clay or puddy. Stick the laser pen on the crank flange, pointed to the RE pinion input. rotate the engine and adjust the front mount until the laser light stays pointed to the center of the pinion shaft. Then move the laser to the pinion shaft. Rotate the pinion shaft and adjust the RE until the laser points directly to the CL of the crank flange. You may have to go back end forth a couple times. But the location is exact when the light stays on center with rotation.

Bob Szabo
www.racecarbook.com
"Fuel Injection Racing Secrets"
"5000 Horsepower on Methanol"
"Jetting for Racing Mechanical Fuel Injection for Normally Aspirated Small Block V-8 Racing Engines on Methanol"

coming soon:

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Mark williams Tools

We have a Mark Williams Bar has a ford 9 pinion flange on it and we made some aluminum collars in the lathe to slide on it to go in the main caps.

You know its not straight when you swap feet!

Mark

 

I do it same as Mark