Holy s*%$ .007 on the rods?

Discussion in 'PSI Superchargers Tech Questions' started by 65dodge, Jan 4, 2009.

  1. Dale Finch

    Dale Finch Member

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    Brian,

    Great rods, just a question!!

    Why you don't recommend resizing the rods after a few runs. Before "GRP" we used to do this at 5 runs and then gone at 14-15 runs. I have noticed the bearings start looking rubbed on. New rods, same tune up cleans back up again until about 18 runs. It is work but seems to be worth it too be safe.

    Your thoughts??
     
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  2. Mike Canter

    Mike Canter Top Dragster
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    Thanks Brian. Good to hear from you again. Appreciate the answer.

    Brian, would it help if one used a bolt stretch gauge on at least one rod in the motor and over twenty runs recorded the amount of torque needed each time to obtain the correct bolt stretch (.006?)? Then one could make a torque schedule so you would know what to torque them to at certain run counts and not have to use the stretch gauge again. When I did this I found that I used one torque amount for the first five runs, then a different torque amount for runs 6 to 10 then it settled down from runs 11 to 20. I kinda rounded off the torque required to at leat a 3 lb change and didn't worry about the ones and twos. Does doing this help or is it just being anal retentive?

    Dale, I believe the days of resizing rods stopped when they started serrating the joining ends of the rods.
     
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  3. Dave Koehler

    Dave Koehler Member

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    This is a FWIW deal.
    For many moons I have been torquing up new rods 4 or 5 times. The serrations move in and the ID decreases. Then remove the pin and resize the rods. Install new pin. This process keeps the big end stable for a lot longer and sometimes they never move again.

    The only other thing I found to help stability and life was to run the rods through the Meta-Lax stress relief process.

    Dave Koehler
     
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    Last edited: Jan 7, 2009
  4. aj481x

    aj481x Member

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    How do you remove the pins?

    Thanks
     
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  5. Dave Koehler

    Dave Koehler Member

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    Heap big double secret..;)
    Drill the pin from the journal side and use a tap. Screws it right out. 10-32 as I recall without looking.

    Dave Koehler
     
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    Last edited: Jan 7, 2009
  6. aj481x

    aj481x Member

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    Yeah, we've been there. Was hoping someone had a better way. Have also drilled a little hole from the bottom and punched them out. At least that saves the pin. :)
     
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  7. Dave Koehler

    Dave Koehler Member

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    I guarantee if you drill the hole from the bottom, sooner or later it's going to split. Seen it several times. Pins are cheap.
     
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  8. Creech

    Creech Member

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    Thanks to everybody. These types of discussions help save us poor boys money. I've hever really liked learning from my mistakes.
     
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  9. Chuck Stevens

    Chuck Stevens New Member

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    "back in the day", we ran Mickey's in my Top Gas motors. I'd buy'em new from Ed Pink so they were "cold stabilized, checked, and had the bolts set down .100. We'd put 5-6 passes on them and send them back to Pink for a resize. I think he was the only guy, other than a manufacturer, that could remachine the serrations. We'd put another 15-18 runs on them and have them done again, for another 15-18 passes. Then put them back in the box and let'em set for a year...to relax. Then run them another 10-15 passes. HARDLY ever broke 1.:cool:
     
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  10. Creech

    Creech Member

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    When we re sized the rods the big ends were smaller than spec. so we didn't cut the caps.
    Like I said above I don't want to be a guinea pig but it's my opinion that if I use the toque spec's on the rods between rounds or when I put it together cold: Whether it's http://www.grpconrods.com/grprod.html , brooks or http://www.mgpconnectingrods.com/products.htm .If I resize 'em and put new bolts in 'em @ 15 runs (for a couple hudred buck's) they'd go another 10 runs at least.

    Brian @ GRP or Noah @ MGP still gets there dime off the bolts and know they make the best rods out there.
     
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