Push Rod oilers

Working on getting my hemi together.
I have a .500 short KB block with I think Brad 3 heads. It has BAE intake rocker and a gold colored exhaust
I noticed the intake rocker has an oil squirt hole to lube the intake push rods, but the exhaust rocker has nothing. I have been told the intake is good for oiling but the exhaust will burn up push rods. This is going to be a bracket race/grudge type deal and I do not want to be constantly running the valves and or worried about burnt push rods.
Is there any reason I can't or shouldn't drill a push rod oil hole in the exhaust rocker like the intake has?
Opinions on if it will help?

Thanks
Dave

 

Maybe send them to BAE and they will do it?

 

Thanks. So you agree it would be a good idea?

Dave

 

Yes. Especially for bracket racing. I sent you a PM

 

Never has exhaust get hurt.Intake even with rocker oiling is whole different ball game. I added oilers to mine but on intake. Had a buddy question me about them and did a set for exhaust. He talked to a well respected TA tuner who told him exactly what I said about intake vs exhaust need for oilers.

 

I think you should find out about the parts you have. The Brad 3 had several unique rocker stands and weak exhaust rockers. Both near impossible to find now. I think you need to run the valves. I think you may need to change the oil ( 10 + quarts )every run till you get a proper
tune. As for bracket racing how are you going to cool everything down in 15 minutes assuming you do go a few rounds.

 

You cant get rockers from BAE for the Brad 3 anymore?

 

I think intakes yes. Exhaust no. Also,I bought the last rocker stands they had years ago.
Let me add there always seems to be some confusion surrounding the BAE 3. They weren't around long compared to the BAE 4 and the variations that followed.

 

Wide, You and I have talked about this in the past. Maybe I'm confused about which gets hurt quicker. I'm just looking at which has the lack of oiling, and seeing nothing on the exhaust side is what I'm looking at.

So, have you had a chance to run your dragster yet?

 

LOL, that is going to be the question. Wideopen 231 and I have discussed this as he is attempting to do the same as I. A lot of fans and an oil cooler...lol Wideopen had suggested something to increase idle fuel on return road, but of course oil changes would likely be a part of cooling it down as well especially as it would likely milk the oil pretty bad.
I will add, I currently run a 500 inch, 8.71 blown/injected bracket racing and unless I get hung out staging, the car doesn't get over 150 and I drive it to the staging lanes and back after a run.
I guess if the solid block doesn't work out I'll just sell it and play with something else.

Just as something else to add. A few years back I bracket raced a solid block with a set of Brewer heads, injected. With no issues. Heads had water running through them, oil temp stayed within 250 deg.

 

I think with KB gone the short sleeves and a main cap if you need any would be a problem. A short deck limits you in manifold choices. All that are readily available are for fatheads. No water there.
Grudge would probably work best. While everyone is talking shit and locking it in you have time to cool down.

 

Have run it some. Limited due to covid crap. Only few shots down track and most had little shake issue at hit. Getting that ironed out. Did destroy reverse clutch pack because light bulb screwed up trans brake lock out. Then hit button down track and probably in high(hi/lo valvebody). Best so far 4.98 with peddling cpl times.

Only heat issue has been trans,but then welding the reverse clutch pack together and wiping out all the teeth on fibers will add little heat.

Only push rod issue was me pulling out of trailer after cpl weeks and firing w/o any prelubing of push rods.

Have a new set of bushed lifters I am testing right now to see how well they work with splash oil only.

 

Most bracket deals are only short time wise between last cpl rounds.. A fan with a plumbing system that directs air to converter and oil pan helps tons.
As Dcovey said. I have a valve that allows me to richen system anytime I want. As little as .015 rich will drop temps. Yes Oil will have be drained and strained more often. A vac system and running motor up temp wise and opening afterwards before putting car away helps tons here.

 

Wide, watch those lifters, the last set I destroyed were a set of comp cams bushed lifters. The Screw that holds the tie bar on came loose and took out the #1 cyl lifters and then bounced back and took out #8. Found pieces of lifter up in the valve springs.
I called the guy that owns BAM lifters and asked him about that. Told him what I had and how it has no oiling. He said a bushed lifter would not live. Said because of no pressurized oil that there wouldn't be a wedge of oil for bushing to ride on. Compared it to rod bearing. I will say that my bushed lifters seemed to be alright other than the broken ones.

Why would you have to pre lube the push rods after it sits?
What makes the hemi so different than a wedge that it burns up push rods? Makes no sense to me as I cant see what the difference is.

 

I had every one of the sleeves replaced in my block a couple of months ago. I took a tall deck sleeves and shortened them. As for the main caps, to be honest I think if nothing else A set could be made using a blank piece of billet. Not saying it would be cheap. In fact I have a set of aluminum caps for a wedge in the shop. Just have to install and line bore.
My block is currently at the machine shop having the cam tunnel bored for a 54mm cam. I had a cam custom ground at Bullet with the spread lobes for the lifters. Not cheap..

 

Have always prelubed push rods after they sit.Most of time I loose rockers and add some lube(super lube is name of what I have Loc tite). As to difference can not tell never had wedge motor.LOL.

Lifters not from comp and can not reveal who's it is yet. I am a guinea pig here. Up side is I have two more duplicate cams on shelf anf hoping to keep them there. I am testing these in series of steps.Multiple fire ups running up,cooling refiring and checking.Then repeat with little more abuse. After I get to where I have fired up 4 or 5 times. Its track time. I plan to check valves between runs in order to catch anything if possible.

Got lucky last week. A found to lifters out of bore,intake PR broken and allowed tie bar to come out. Nothing hurt. Was swapping out new lifters when found it.

So far 3 fire ups.turned her 8000 on stand. Lifters have zero play. So far. Lots of work but hell love R&D. I have been R&D since 1985 .LMAO

 

As for sleeves. I have turned 6 old KB's down to make work in TFX. I have a butt load of them if you run short. Some 4.190 stuff will allow reboring, Mostly 4.310 which might be issue. If need some wydopn2313@yahoo.com

 

Mine is 4.5 bore. So I need the Big OD sleeve. I had the small od sleeves in it the last time I ran it and several cracked around the top of the cylinder that's why I had to have them replaced. Bore the block then bore the sleeves.

 

This is a wedge and hemi oiling diagram. The rockers are oiled through the #4 cam journal on what I call a timed oil hole. Oil passes to the rockers each time the hole from the mains align with the hole through the cam to the head. I could cut a groove in the journal or run a oil line external from the external oil galley through the valve cover into the top of the rocker stand by removing one of the set screws and putting a 90* An fitting there. Basically oiling from top and bottom. Or do a spray bar as we talked about earlier. I just noticed the exhaust rockers had no oiling provision and jumped to the thought they were the one's burning up.

 

Can you explain to a dummy like me just how to tell which heads are which?
When I first got this engine no one could tell me what they were. I'm assuming they are Brad 3.
Dave