Tips for torqueing front crank bolt after trans is on

Was wondering how others go about torquing their front main crank bolt? I run a lencodrive and full bellhousing. Would like to be able to do this without pulling the trans. Running Snyder's bolt that gets torqued to 400 ftlbs. Other than wedging a bar on the back crank bolts, (not possible to do with the trans hooked up)....

Thanks,
Steve

 

May be kinda crude....we use a torque wrench on the crank bolt resting against the frame rail and then tighten the bolt using a turn over bar on the blower (turn blower snout backwards).....if no blower then remove oil pan and a block of wood between crankshaft and side of the block...again, may be crude but it will hold the crank to tighten the front hub bolt...

 

Thanks, this is my first blower motor and wasn't sure what the do's and don'ts are. That's not too hard on the blower belt? I had thought of the block of wood idea but again wasn't sure. Just wedge it between a rod journal and the block?

Thanks,
Steve

 

1. yes using blower as described.
2. when blower not on or those N/A we fit a round tapered pry bar from the front through the access hole in the motor plate into a spare hole in flexplate and tighten away.

 

Buy a Nord-Lock Superbolt and you can use a 1/4 in drive torque wrench. http://www.nord-lock.com/superbolt/multi-jackbolt-tensioners/bolt-style-tensioners/introduction/

 

If you take the pan off you could out a pcs of wood 2x4 between the crank and block.

I made a long handle that bolts on the lower pulley flange out of flat stock.

Works great

 

Automan makes a bar that bolts on where you bolt your pulley on so you can hold that bar and torque your crank bolt. RBS sell it.

 

thanks guys!