Bae hurting valvesprings

I run a typical bae 5 c rotor outlaw combo with a bullet cam that I specified should be easy on parts. Shift at 9300 and no wide open two step. I have t&d rocker gear 1.7/1.7. I upgraded to solid tool steel pushrods and KJS triple springs with 530 seat and 1300 open.
Still beats valve springs and the valve job. Everything else seems happy. Everybody I know runs their stuff harder and get 30 runs minimum out of the springs.
I'm wondering if the t&d has flex that causes stability problems?
I run the lash at .024. Would tightening it help any?

Thanks for any thoughts

 

Wow that's loose. We run .012 lash on ours. Looser would pound the seat. And 530 new ? After break in? Triples suck. They loose psi every run. We went to Pac 1360 and have about 600 on seat. Get about 17-20 runs then there under 520. Toss em after 20 runs. Hemi beats the springs up pretty bad. Howuch oil is up there. If you don't have a lot of oil being put on the intake springs they will overheat and fall off pretty quick.

 

I have the the Duel PAC 1360 springs they started at 525 @2.100 80 plus runs later intakes were at 475 ext were at 450 (steel valve) its a 481 x 900 lift shift @ 9100 intake seats look perfect

 

Aren't you a turbo engine? If so you don't count. Those things are easy on parts with efi.

 

springs

T&D has pressure oiling everywhere so I think it flows on the spring pretty good.Std BAE restrictors in the block. Most outlaw screw cars tried the 1360 and have switched back to the triples.

 

Is that .012 hot?

 

Yes it is. Most pro extreme cars have abandon Pac springs due to there lack of quality. Psi is where we will all wind up. I spin 10,000 rooms with both Pac 1355-1360. 2 step around 6000. Can go a full season and the valve seat are fine. Usually .002-.005 for valve job touch up 5 angle job!

 

Im surprised no one has asked how far you are from coil bind? Valve lash does not hurt a valve spring. It will beat up the valve cap or tip and magnifies any valve train issues you may have already but it wont hurt a spring on its own.

I have run Manley 1461's and Pac 1361s I like the Pac better.

Do yourself a favor put a dial indictor on your engine and measure actually valve lift. I am sure you will be surprised to find you have way less valve lift than you thought which means if you set up your installed height off of your cam card and thought you were .050 to coil bind you are actually about .150 to coil bind.

I am not sure about other rocker systems but on our Manton rockers we loose about .100 to .110 though valve lift from cam card. It as if the rocker isn't as advertised for ratio.

Anyways you kill valve springs and beat up seats from spring surge basically being too far from coil bind.

If you need more help PM me I will help you out as I went through the valve train blues.

Billy T

 

Cam

A cam will do this. We had a cam that was suppose to be identical to our others but every time we ran that motor with this cam we killed valve train parts and we never have valve train issues. The lift was fine but the ramp to get to the lift was not. Triples or doubles is all preference in my opinion. I hear people bitch about both of them and in my opinion if you have valve spring issues it probably is something else causing it and they blame it on the springs. We run triples with no issues and get a lot of runs out of them.

 

if it wasn't for 10000 rpm id say you were running a chevy!!!

 

Id be looking at my valve weight. Intake valves between 125-130 grams are gonna eat springs no matter what spring you try. Your springs are going into flux plus your T&D rockers flex a ton. Ive already been through this and has cost me a lot of $$ to figure out so Free advise weigh your intake valve. Only other way to band aid it is to shift lower at 8600 you will see the issue get better. Can't compare any of this with a turbo engine. Whole different animal.

 

Springs

126g intake and 96g exhaust. I know they are heavier than most current stuff but it seems to wear the exhaust just as much as the intake.
I guess it's always hard to compare what other combos are doing. My friends that run really high rpm have all the correct parts to do it.
The guys that run older stuff usually don't run 129% on a c rotor and they don't have flexible rockers.
We have all the power we need just want better cost per run. Sounds like I could throw 10000.00 at it just to get valvesprings to last as long as a set of rods?

 

Actually if you had a lathe and a way to measure valve margin you can dish your existing valves. Thats how i fixed mine till i could afford new valves. But remember to cc the chamber again so you can re adjust compression with gasket. Or send them back to valve company & let them do the cut. This is normally $20 a valve. So save your $10,000 and spend less than $500 with gasket & try. Ive had 2 other guys with the same issue & this has corrected both. JMO Thanks.

 

I was thinking the same thing. I have a lathe I just need a valve to copy.thanks for the idea.

 

Be careful with that, a lot of guys just went to flat faced valves on the high rpm blown alky stuff to keep the valve from tuliping.

126G is not heavy in my opinion for the spring you are running.

What I find strange is you say you stay on top of your springs and add shim as the spring goes away. If you had you spring set up correctly to start you wouldn't have any room to add additional springs.

You have to make sure you are no more than .050 to actual coil bind. Check actual valve lift then remember that's static not dynamic which means you have less than your dial indicator tells you that you have which is much less than you cam card and rocker ratio.

 

Spring

10-4 I'm doing this for the next race. I've been close before on some springs but not consistent throughout the engine.