Blower Turns Hard after sitting for a month and hence slow cranking and no MSD spark

Hi,
I have a Blown Alcohol 527 ci Hemi which resides in a 1965 Plymouth Belvedere. So I was busy and couldnt go racing for several months ok 5 months. I took the car to the track today and we couldnt get it started. Engine was turning over real slow. Took the blower belt off and it spun over at about 3 times the speed and started. Blower belt back on and back to slow cranking and hence no MSD Magneto spark. This happened once before and after removing the blower belt we started the car. Then we retarded the timing and put the belt back on and got it started. After the warm up i took the blower belt off and noticed that the blower turned over much easier than it had prior to running. The blower is a littlefield hi helix 1471 with teflon strips.

Can someone tell me what is happening with the blower that causes it to get real tight after sitting for awhile. So tight in fact that i cant get the engine to turn over fast enough to start.
Thanks in advance,
Ken

 

Thanks for the input Mike. I do you Prizm, at least i think i do. I am using a PTFE which i think is Prizm. Purchased from RBS Superchargers. But here is the catch. I spray it down the hat when putting the car away. But i dont turn the blower over. So I dont think that it is coating the blower walls hence corrosion. And i didnt know that you could spray it in the hat while the engine is running

Ken

 

PRIZM is great stuff we use it all the time and love it just shop around the price will vary from $8.50 per can to $28.00 per can..do your shoppiung ..Dave

 

Prizm but Different Labeled

I just bought ten 12 OZ cans of this blower lube but under a different label off of Ebay. Described as " Penetrating gel with PTFE" 10 spray cans at $5.99 each plus $17.42 shipping = $77.32 for ten cans = $7.32 per can delivered to my door.

 

I spoke with JR at RBS Superchargers

Hey Mike,
I spoke with JR at rbs superchargers. He said that the lube can cause the teflon to swell. So I guess that means, if you are going to let the car sit awhile, like 5 months dont spray the lube in after you shut it down. Do you ever let your cars sit for long periods after having sprayed the lube into the blower?
Thanks,
Ken

 

There is more than one type of material used for rotor tips -----maybe this no name stuff off E Bay is the issue ?

 

To Spray Or Not To Spray Teflon Strips When Storing

I have done some research since my last post about what lube to use and whether the $25 a can stuff or the so-called "off brand from Ebay" $7 a can stuff that is the same chemical composition as the expensive brand on the so called "teflon" rotor strips that some people say are swelling the teflon rotor strips. I find that true teflon is basically impervious to all chemicals, spray lubricants included.
I have numerous machines running various chemicals through them, one being a heated spray foam machine that I had to go to teflon seals because the standard rubber of ANY kind o-ring would dissolve in seconds. Teflon solved the problem, no more issues, even at 300 degrees of isocynate exposure.
That being said, if the rotor strips you are using swell up, maybe your "name brand" strips are not true virgin teflon to start with. I think there are other issues with the posters blower binding and it may have nothing to do with teflon strips. More likely dry and dragging and surface corrosion or oxidation with NO lube is the issue, especially after sitting. Heck, even WD40 would help with the drag but it would degrade the rubber oil seals so use the PTFE spray. Use the $7 stuff and turn the blower over every couple of weeks. Problem should go away.
With all due respect.

 

Myself I would check the timing of the rotors..has it back fired ever if so it might have bang a rotor or twisted a stub shaft..Dave

 

Also on the other note if the can says 764 on it (RUN)..that is all Iam going to say..it's your blower use what ever pleases you..but do check your rotor timing.Dave

 

I don't flush out my fuel system after every race but I do "pickle" it at the end of the season.

We start the car and run the methanol out.
Put 1/2 gallon of gas in with a pretty good dose of 2-cycle oil.
Start the car and run the gas out and as the engine rev's up going lean, I squirt into the hat, some more more gas with a BIG dose of 2-cycle oil and let the engine die.
Tape up the hat and exhaust to make it air tight.

You could spin the engine over and with a squirt type oil can, spritz the inside of the blower with 2-cycle oil.

Jim

 

cleaning out fuel system

Hi all, surely this will only address the hat and idle components as tghe port nozzles etc wont be in circuit and would therefore have methanol left in them. We pull every line and every check valcem blow them out and dose them with CRC, same with all the lines etc.

 

Whack the throttle a few times when it's running on gas.
Put it on the 2 step would be even better but, never did that.
Might be a good idea for next time.

Jim

 

is this a mag case...if so it is ccorrosion..the alcohol will put a past like crap in your blower it will be in the bottom..what the alcohol is doing is eating the mag.I just fixed one with the same problem friday..Dave

 

I have been absent. Thanks for the replies

I am going to be taking the Blower off the engine and will then disassemble the blower to see what i find.

A couple of answers:
I havent had any backfires and the car will run fine and the blower will loosen up after the car starts so i dont think blower timing is an issue.

I use name brand lube not the stuff off of ebay. Although for the the life of me i cant remeber the brand. I will look when up at the shop next and post the brand name.

I always blow Marvel Mystry Oil thru all of the lines, pump, injectors, but to Mikes point i am flushing the alcohol out of the lines and into the blower.

More to come as i will post what i find when i get the blower apart.

Thanks everyone,
Ken