Help I cant get the car to leave

1965 Belvedere tube frame, 50/50 weight distribution, 4 link 2400 lb car, 572 ci Blown Alcohol hemi 11.5:1 static compression, 768 lift 292/294 lift 116 cl cam, 1271 hi helix making about 20 lbs of boost.

I cant get the car to leave. Al it wants to do is wheelie. I have the bars up at 9.75 inches and she still hits them hard enough to unload the tires.. I just added 55 lbs of ballast to the front end and that helped. Raised the wheelie bars up to 10 inches limited the frontend travel to about 1 inch only had about 1 click of compression in the rear shocks and 3 clicks of rebound. 4 link is set at 51.1" ic at 8" off the ground 105% antisquat. I launched the car at 3000 rpm off the brake and then pushed into the pedal and it actually bounced the back tires off the ground ( Goodyear 33x17 the ones with the real stiff sidewall, old prostock tire) at which time they went up in smoke.
Help.................... were do i go from here????????????????????????????

Ken

 

Response to Mike

I have strange coil over shocks and springs. The springs are 110 lb/inch. So the compression on the shocks is so stiff that i can hardly push move the car when pushing down on the back end. but ok i will accept what you are saying. As far as rebound you are saying i should stiffen it up as well?

I have a digital 7 box that i use to take timing out. I have 34 degrees of timing set and then i am taking out 10 degrees at launch and bringing it back in over 1.5 seconds. I am guessing i have too much initial and am not taking out enough correct?.

I am running 5.75 lbs of air in the tires as the weather was cold, ie 53 degrees. I have a dana 60 in the car and am limited as to the rear gears i can run but i am running a 4.10 gear. Also a point to note is that i am running a glide with a 1.8 first gear but i think i have way to much stall in the convertor. It is 5500. I was thinking of pulling it and get it redone to stall around 4000.

BTW - thanks for the feedback. any and all is greatly appreciated as i would like to get this thing down the track. My best run to date is an 8.14 with my pedal stop set at the half position. You might ask why i have a pedal stop. it is so i dont do something stupid while i am getting used to the car and also getting the car to straight. I dont do this as a profession just a hobby. thanks again.

 

I agree, put the wheelie bar down as low as you can, it will bring up the wheel speed and help the car launch properly. Your tire pressure sounds about right, on a modern tire more pressure will hook it harder, less will cause it to spin more.

 

response to Ken

Ken,
When you say as low as i can. Do you mean like an inch or two off the ground??
Thanks

 

Clarification on the tire

I am running goodyear slicks D4a compound which i was told by the midwest goodyear rep is the old prostock compound. In my post above it sounds like i am running old prostock slicks. The tires are new just my poor writing skills.

 

Don't be afraid to pull more timing to help calm it down.

Joad

 

Instead of pulling so much out of it at the hit I'd leave the power in it to get the car up on the tires (to try to spin the tires and get wheel speed) instead of bogging the motor and sticking the tires, resulting in it climbing the ring gear. Once it's off the starting line I'd pull some back. Been there done that with 4 link converter cars. Mike is actually recommending changes that do the same thing, but I'm a bigger fan of doing it with the power you paid big $$ for instead of throwing it in the garbage by retarding the timing.

 

relpy to Mike

I will order some heavier rear springs.
I measured all of the locations of the brackets and holes and then put them into a 4 link program and use the program to map out my 4 link settings. The goodyears only have about 10 runs on them they are 33s as i cant really fit anything larger without major surgery to the car. Thanks again for all of the feedback.
ken

 

Reply to Randy G.

Randy given that i am a neophyte in this game I am probably about to ask a question that will leave you wondering what the hell i am doing with a car like this in the first place. Well i kind of went crazy when i built it and when i got in it the first time i thought oh my god what have i done. I am now starting to get used to all of the power but still i think i went a little overboard. Anyway, when you say spin the tires how much spin are we looking for? I am assuming some spin but not enough that they start smoking for example. Here is a couple of youtube vids of the car not the best but it might give you an idea of what is happening. the first is the burn out and the second is the launch. View the second one in full screen it may make it easier to see.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uNIzMsOlmww
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qqc4OdR6VNQ

Thanks again,
Ken

 

Forgot to answer the head question

I have Stage 5 Millenium heads on the engine.

 

reply to mike

Dont know if they are top fuel heads but they are 170 cc chambers and if i remember correctly 2.45" intake and 1.95 exhaust valves or in that ballpark. The car weighs about 2400 to 2500 with me in it. I just added 55 lbs of ballast so closer to the 2500.

 

reply to mike 2

Also i have no idea what kind of power the engine is making as i have not dynoed it. My Machinest thinks it is probably pushing 2000 hp but that is a guess at best. I built the engine. Diamond 11.5:1 pistons, dykes top ring, napier second ring, keith black billet crank shaft 4.5" bore x 4.5 inch stroke BME alumminum rods (something like 7.082 length) .904 lifters LSM Camshaft (60 mm 768 lift 292/294 116 cl) littlefield hihelix 1271 25% od. Clevite V bearing mains and rods, enderle big and ugle hat, 990 pump. Again this is my hobby, first blown alcohol engine and car, and i basically go out and test and tune the car.

 

I think you need a different converter setting with a much lower stall. We had similar problems with our FED and JW recommended tighten up the convertor< which they did. We were doing wheelies and shaking the tires before, now it just leaves with maybe just a tiny wheelie. In my opinion you need to get a baseline and I don't think adjustment of shocks etc. is going to make a difference until you get that baseline launch. Just my opinion.

Rick

 

You have NO IDEA how many Customers I have tried telling the same thing to!!....."Lets just leave the burn-out limiter on for the run".......Doesn't work!! But I have seen many "try"

 

reply to rick

Rick,
I was thinking of taking the converter down to around 4000 stall. what kind of stall did you guys have in your converter. BTW- it is a Jw converter. I think i will give them a call tomorrow.