Bae oil return

So has anybody ever drilled or opened the oil return holes thru the head and block . They hold a lot of oil in the heads but by doing that would that affect the vale train with a heat issue. I don't want to put the oil line in the valve cover to the pan just another thing to leak . I'm a Chevy guy so this makes sense to me. Get it out of the head to the pan and pump and back into the tank. Oil stays cooler, cleaner and less meth in oil. Dunno maybe I'm over thinking it. Just would like some input

 

I always thought there should be slots in the lifter galley to let the oil return faster, just like the KB blocks

 

I guess thats why we all run 19 litres of oil in a dry sump tank, that seems to solve the problem.

 

I wonder if we changed the "exits" from the valve covers to some other area like the front and rear of the valley if that would allow the oil to drain back while running better.

 

I can say that on a early model hemi having a #8 drain hose from the lower back corner of the even side cylinder head to the oil pan helps alot. With a wet sump and a dry sump.

 

Oil Return

Oil return is so important that they named a road after it . Its called the return road where the engine is off . When you've done the burnout , the right hand valve cover has 8 quarts of 50 or 70 wt. in it . The 7/16 drainback holes on the right hand side of the motor are pressurized by crank rotation and have oil going up to the head while the motor is running . Oil returns to the pan when the key is off . Thats why we run 18 - 20 quarts in todays supercharged motors .

 

How does all of that oil get in the valve cover?

 

My guess is the valvecover to oil pan hose isn't large enough, it needs to be able to equalize that psi difference very quickly. It works for me, but I'm also tractor pulling, and BBC and 8-71...

 

I have seen blow by lines connected to the front of the intake manifold below the burst panel rather than routed through the valve covers. Looked like a good idea.

 

Would a -16 line out of the oil fill hole on a BAE be big enough for blow by, by itself?

 

oil return

Just wondering can you leave the the windage tray out of the pan and help the oil get to the pick up faster and to be returned to the tank quicker.
Is a rotor pump (p&p) type better than a gear pump ( system one)type for the scavage side?
I understand that we run 16 to 19 quarts in the tank,but at the end of the run there should be about only 3 to 4 quarts in the oil pan,and the rest in the tank.
On my hemi there seems to be 10 to 12 quarts in the pan, and the oil presure starts at about 150 and as the rpm go up the the presure drops to about 100 at 8500.
I talked to Ora and he told me that the pumps will not only pump oil , but they will pump air ,causing oil starvation to the bearings.

 

Bae

I'm working on my first bae and I can't believe how unrefined the oil system is.my block has slots above the cam in the valley. They are handy to see the hurt cam lobe and lifter.splash oiling just like my lawn mower.
We worked our asses off to make a wetsump work on a screw blown Chevy.you could make a true dry sump out of it and carry little oil but the bae would burn up if you actually cleared it out.
The windage tray is critical to keep oil from wrapping around the crank in a frothy mess.good baffling in the oil tank and synthetic oil helps too. I would run a round pro stock style tank if I had one.
I think the return hoses from the heads can help. Even if they just equalize crank pressure it's a gain.they might flow oil after the burnout and at idle.
A lot of MBr and all Chevy combos use the hoses.