chassis help

Discussion in 'PSI Superchargers Tech Questions' started by rowalton, Sep 10, 2011.

  1. rowalton

    rowalton New Member

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    car is driving to the left when leaving where should i start
     
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  2. ITS IN MY BLOOD

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    It helps if we know what it is you are driving,..??
    class, type power, 4 link, Hard tail etc,..
    I would make sure that both rear slicks have equal tire diameter roll out with the same set tire pressure in both.
    Driving to the left would mean the right rear has more grip than the left rear, cause could be from several things,......
    too much left front pre load..... or too much right rear corner weight....
    tire pressures are not exact ,...the tire in the sun will grow and increase tire pressure.....
    left wheelie bar is planting harder than the right putting the unloaded transfer to the right rear...
    if with rear shocks,..too much preload on the right rear spring/corner weight or dampning is too stiff on right rear.
    4 link is off,..measure with tape measure from the ground up to each bar, and on both sides,...

    ........??????

    :cool:

    Ok saw your other post
    4 link blown BBC tube chasis car,..check things out i posted up above start with the easiest first

    Tire roll out,........exact tire psi when running,...measure both wheelie bars....etc
     
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    Last edited: Sep 10, 2011
  3. hemi altered 378

    hemi altered 378 Blown Altered

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    i am no genius, but i would start with the rollout of the tires. if all is good there, and it is a solid mounted rear end....move on to the chassis. our car was wanting to go to the left, and we were trying to narrow it down. we changed and checked just about everything possible.....nothing. we even scaled it, and was within 10 pounds. wheelbase was dead on side to side, etc. we had made 6 laps and it kept getting worse with every lap. on the 2nd to last lap of the year it shook my brains out, so i aborted the run. came back for the next lap, blew the tires off instantly. it turns out that the spindle on the floater housing had cracked, and kept getting worse with every hit. found the problem, and thanked the good lord above when i got the car out of the trailer. here's a pic of the housing. i am not saying that this is your problem, but please don't take anything for granted. CHECK EVERYTHING
    Darren
    [​IMG]
     
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  4. Blownalky

    Blownalky Top Sportsman

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    Man, did that exact thing twice this year, once on each side. Hit the wall the first time as the spindle broke completely off and as you say, thank the Lord I didn't kill myself the next time. When I got my new housing, no tireshake and the best 60 foot times ever. As Darren said, CHECK EVEYTHING.


    Tom
     
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  5. nitrowannabe

    nitrowannabe Member

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    I have two thoughts. Use the longer spindle and extend the back brace all the way to the end. The housing shown was built to break there.
     
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  6. jim phillips

    jim phillips ta/fc

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    if everything else checks out roll out ect. make sure the rearend is square in the car if you have to make a chassis adjustment make small adjustments and one at a time and start with the top right hand four like bar a small adjustment there should fix it if everything else checks out

    if its up on the wheelie bars for one cant steer with the wheels up like vic said check your wheelie bar height that aslo can cause a lot of grief
     
    #6
    Last edited: Sep 12, 2011
  7. hemi altered 378

    hemi altered 378 Blown Altered

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    the housing was just worn out....lasted 16 years. we were asking it to do something that it was definitely not designed to do. it had a sleeve inside,and it broke too. just one of those things....glad it happened on the line.sure it could have been built a little differently....but it was just a matter of time. take nothing for granted on a race car.
    Darren
     
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