steel rods yes or no?

since i've built my engine i've decided to use it differant;;my org build was to show car and short street crusies;;at build since was only going to be 10%od on a 8-71 blower and only do exibition runs at some car shows i decided the steel "H" beam rods with ARP2000 rod bolts would be fine;;i ended up with a 12-71 blower at 22.8%od and a B&U hat;;my static comp. is around 11.8;;spud miller flowed my fuel system and gave me a safe start-up tune;;
i have now decided that i do not want to waste this engine just setting at car shows and that i want to race it instead;;;i'll keep spud's tune-up[safe one]..not wanting to push it for every drop of power just want to live out my dream of having a very fast car;;
SHOULD I SPEND THE $800.00 TO PUT ALUMIUNUM RODS IN ENGINE[NOT COUNTING ROD COST]OR CAN I KEEP MY STEEL RODS AS LONG AS I STAY WITH THE SOFT SAFE TUNE SPUD SET ME UP FOR???????????
PS;;i'm on a tight budget but can't afford to loose engine..took 5 yrs to build it;
thanks
don
badtoyzz racing
540bbc blown alcohol engine
11.8 static comp.
731/726 lift roller //114 lobe center //running dur 322--326//dur at .050 284--288
brodix heads flowed to 372cfm on intake at 700 lift
12-71 blower 25%OD
big&ugly injector hat
port nozzles
990 pump
fuel system flowed by spud miller

trans;;pg with brake
1;80 straight cut gears
10 disc high gear

4;30 gears
car estimated at 2800 lbs
32x14.5x15 slicks

 

are you good at welding blocks and cranks ?

 

so i'm guessing you saying go aluminum then? what kind of horse power you think i'm at;;my first blown alcohol engine..everything new to me..trying learn as i build..

 

Hey Don i am just finishing my motor which is almost the same as yours Dart block 540 aluminum rod 1471 and i am aiming for 1500hp so once we dyno mine in a few weeks i will let you know what we made for power and what specs we have it set at, as i am going for a safe tune up as well
Simon

 

thanks simon;;;;that would be great;;i bought the front mag drive from you for my engine;;don't know if you remembered or not.

 

I would not even think of a steel rod,,,as said get your tig out..Dave

 

alum rods for sure

 

Our combo:

427 + .060
10.25:1
.748-.775 w/ 290-294 on 114 lc
Dart 345's
8-71 std rotor @ 25%
makes 25 lbs
on the dyno in April made 1400

has Oliver steel rods

runs in a circle boat, on and off the throttle for 5 minutes in a heat,
sees 7500 rpm

NO problems ( once we got the tune up correct )

 

Steel rods

We have run Oliver steel rods in our car with a similar setup to your description for four seasons with no problems. 2000lb dragster with lazy 560 running high sixes. I believe the Oliver rods are very good and dont know how other brands may hold up. As the ad says "results may vary"
Jim

 

connecting rods

Go with the aluminum rods, steel rods are plenty strong for a blown motor but the problem isn't with the rods themselves.

you need to have the aluminum rod to act as a shock absorber so it doesnt beat the bearings out, crack the crank, loosen up the main cap registers and bend the piston pins wich inturn cracks the piston and then guys usualy blame the piston as the weak link or the rod becomes wedged in the cylinder and then snaps the crank and then in that case they blame the crank.

run good aluminum rods and a stout wrist pin also keep an eye on your bearings and valvetrain and your investment will last a long time.

good luck

 

rods

Run what you have...you won't make 30 psi at that overdrive. You'll be able to smoke those 32 inch tires to half track without hurting anything and that will be a lot more fun than a car show.
It's not going to murder itself in 60 ft. It will make metal and rattle the caps before it fails so you'll have warning. When you get to the point of cleaning cad off the plugs and turning some rpm you'll have to revisit the rod topic.
I think you'll find a lot better places to spend your time and money once you try to get it down the track.

 

rods

hi if the rods are not new change the rod bolts for sure, L-19, bud ran stock eagle rotating assembly for 8 years, and the last 2 years he ran them blown with around 1400 hp in a 3500 lb car. 12 lbs of boost with a 14 71. steel block truck. stayed at 7000 to 7500 through the traps, and spud did his fuel for him. check bearings after 30 runs or so just to make sure. or get billet rods they will go to 1800 hp at a low rpm deal. with a 4.25 stroke. remember its the stroke that kills the rods. small stroke big bore. my 2 cents

 

I am a steel rod guy. But you have to understand that dyno time to find the least amount of timing to make the good power is extrememly useful, as the statement about the shock absorber is very real. Keep the timing on the light side, and the rpms down. At 8200 or so, steel starts to lose its beauty. And when you are really throwing blower and timing at it, then the aluminums are almost a must.

 

i don't have much cam lift so i'm thinking my ideal rpm is going to be around the 7000 to 7500rpm range[may be wrong here just going by what i've been reading]also thinking timing around 32 to 34 is all;;i'm not looking to get max out of engine..would like to stay on the reserve side of timing and fuel;;when spud gave flowed my fuel system he gave me 3 tune-ups;;the first he said would be a very safe starting and getting used to car tune-up;;i'm thinking as long as it runs in low 8;00's high 7's i'd be happy there with it..

 

easy way to sum things up have you seen a steel rod exit...it does a lot of damage my theroy is do what you want it is your motor the more a person ask the more confused you get, if steel rods were so great in a blown deal then everybody would run them...and do they.............NO. Dave

 

Thats right! Sometimes follow the leader is not a bad thing . If you think you will be happy with a 8 to high 7 deal, That aint gonna last bro . You know this stuff is a DRUG.

 

Steel rods? Not a problem. Been running the same Crower billet steel rods for 4 years. I just cycle rod bolts out at the beginning of season. I can go 20+ runs before I have to change rod bearings. 496 BBC 35+lbs of boost 14-71 shift at 8,000. I have ran 6.70's in the 1/4 and 4.20's in the eighth. 2200lb altered with glide. I have bent 3 rods from melting pistons down from going too lean but have yet to have one break. My engine saw 11,500 rpm 2 years ago from flexplate blowing up and I ran the rods last year with no problem. Buy a good brand of steel rods and don't look back. This is not a top alcohol funny car engine so I guess thats how I get away with it.

 

I don't want to start a fight here, but every time I have an aluminum rod exit the block, it is every bit as bad as a steel rod. But usually more little parts and pieces to go wreck other things too. The last aluminum rod I broke, I kept the manifold, four valves, the valve covers and two roller lifters. Everything else was JUNK!

 

Steel vs alum
I'm a steel rod guy, so take with a grain of sale.
Steel... keep big end shape, don't replace after 100 passes, plenty strong, run them in my blown 468 for 10+ years (Carrillo). Put em in my 492 (crower) and they will last me forever.
Alum... IF you are planning on beating up the thing.. alum is easier on the top bearing. More shock absorbing per se'. BUT, replace after 100 to 250 passes, throw away the old ones. Steel becomes cheap after the first set is junk.
So, really it is a tune-up and hp issue.
Wags

 

Oh, if you are making a decision based upon which one will do the least damage based on the blow up... well, don't build anything.
A little maintenance and fuel mixture being correct goes a long way.
Wags