installing blower studs

have the blue aluminum blower studs..what is the right way to install these into blower manifold?[example--do i use lock-tit or anti-size or ?? on theards before installing/////how tight do i run them down to?//first blower engine and want to do everything right first time.
don
badtoyzz racing
775-340-5505

 

Ditto, most important thing is going around bit by bit, treat it like a cylinder head, little at a time until your tight.

As far as loc tite on the threads, we don't, just check them regular.

 

Mike;;;;do you use anything on the stud theards before screwing them into manifold?as anti-siz or 30wt oil????

 

blower studs

We used to drip the thread of the studs in Kerosone because of two aluminium products so that they would not blind as we screw them into the manifolld, is this not done now.

 

thanks mike and relentless

 

If you have an adaptor plate and depending on how its made...
I had it before where the stud will hit the manifold and slightly lift the adaptor plate, at this point its not flat.
Another situation I had is where the countersink bolts that hold the adaptor plate to the intake, bottomed out in there blind hole at the same time as the bolt head cinched the plate down. They came loose during the run and the boost escaped
Once had the blower come loose and so it walked around causing fret marks. When we tightened the nuts again, the blower didn't spin very nice because of the high spots the fretting made. Lapped them away and it was fine.
The blower spinning and tightening that Mike explained is exactly how I do it also.

 

Put some assembly lube before they screw into the intake, and also on the threads before you put the nuts on to hold the blower down.

Brandon Booher
NHRA TAD #44

 

I have always put antiseize on mine. When you bang the blower and it breaks the studs it is much easier to get the stub left in the hole out that way. I do make a point of checking them frequently to make sure they are tight though. Dave Germain

 

as Mike was saying check for tight spots..also if you still have tight spots you might need to use a surface plate and lap the manifold in..Dave

 

being on the safe side and use lube when using aluminum will save you a headache if the threads gall up. you will not be able to remove them from intake without drilling them out and re threading holes

 

For my own satisfaction and for a learning reason..way only torq blower stud nuts to 120 in. Lbs. Just doesn't seem tight for a 7/16" nut..please don't misunderstand me with this.i'm not saying it isn't right.i don't know myself.that is way i ask.now i like to understand the reason for this torq on them.my first blower engine so trying to learn as much as i can when i putting together this way if i'm asked same question i can answer it right and also explain way it is done this way.
Thanks everyone for all the knowage you have shared with us beginners.
Don
badtoyzz racing

 

use antiseize on the threads... and as for tightening the blower stud bolts, the way I was told when I started was exactly like this.

"Put a wrench on it, and tighten it like you're playing with some titty nipples, give it enough to sting, but not hurt"

SO I use a speed handle with a wobbly socket 9/16 and onec it's down I go in sequence and hold the speed handle on the lower part of the 'kickout' and with one hand just torque it like I was torquin some nipples