Question about an old Mike Canter post...

I was searching the forum for info on the idle poppet, and came across a post by Mike Canter that discussed how minor changes to the leakdown percentage can have significant effects on the cylinder head temp during warmup. Specifically it talked about a 2% change bringing a 5-minute, 110 degree warmup to a 3-minute, 160 degree warmup.

How and where are these temps measured?

I'm really hoping I can just shoot the back of the head with a temp gun or something, as opposed to having to install sensors.

Thanks,

-Scouder

 

what kind of head temp do you look for to be real good

 

Like they say in the movies, I could tell ya, but then I'd have to kill ya.

 

doesnt seem any different than what we ran years ago bracket racing temp wise thought i was missing something thanks jim

 

now thats funny ken

 

Where does one find a gage like what you are talking about?
Is there a gage out there that can be put right on the head that can handle the vibration?

 

I am expecting a call from Randy at RPM on Monday. I will post the result of our conversation. I will be asking about the head temp sensor, and a second crank trigger sensor to log timing changes during a run.

I don't have anybody buying space on the car, so unless it's real cheap I may have to check temps with a temp gun this year, and put the sensor next year. This year I bought the car, trailer, crank, rods, valvesprings, re-strip, flow chart, starter, crank hub, hub puller and pit tools. I've just about knocked a hole in my "discretionary" stash! Why o why couldn't I just have taken up something more affordable, like politics, gambling or hard drugs. Wait a minute, maybe I did all three. This is a game of getting ahead of the other guy, every run is a gamble whether something is gonna fall out of it, and I am seriously addicted! And I thought I only had one habit.

-Scouder

 

head temp

Heres a link to one that uses a mini K. I use it on my Qwickdata, seems to work fine on a blown altered and $70 if you can use it...
http://www.motorsportsinnovations.com/wb_temp.htm

 

Or this one currently on special for $US35;

http://www.thesensorconnection.com/...ple/cht_cylinder_head_temperature_probe.shtml

 

Location

Does anyone have a 'favourite' or 'best' location for fitting the CHT sensor? There's no room in a spark plug tube for one , but I'm thinking as close to the middle of the head has got to be the best. That means a bit of work to fit it. If you tuck it under the exhaust flange you'll get high readings. That really only leaves the end of the head where there's heaps of room and is the easiest. But will that work ok since it's affected the most by the cylinder closest to it?

 

The center is the best, right down by the deck. My Alan Johnson heads have a tapped hole right there just for that purpose. I've run the CHT's at oposite ends of the heads before and the readings are not the same.

 

What about with a BDS 14.71 Pro Charger.

 

Gauge

Hi Sodak,

My car has one that in it, it came with the car but Vern Moats originally built it. The other team didn't use it but figured it looked like an aircraft pyrometer and it kind of does. When I go this upcoming weekend to work on it I will see if there is a name on the gauge. It's not Autometer for sure though. It looks as though it goes to the center of the head on just below the zoomies on my setup.

Trevor Sherwood
Twisted Fate TAFC
616-642-6009

 

I believe you have an ISSPRO gauge , very good one also.

Hey Trevor are you in Fl yet?

 

I forgot this post, but I promised a response so here it is.

I got a head temp sensor from RPM. It looks like a piece of 3/8 course all-thread about an inch long, with wires and a connector coming out of it. It has a jam nut on it.

Randy wasn't sure where to put it on a fuel head engine, so I called BAE. They said to mount it in the deep recess between the center cylinders under the header flange. I just drilled and tapped a 3/8 course hole in the bottom of the recess. Then I had to mill a hole in the header flange for the connector to stick out. The only difficult part was tightening the jam nut. There isn't enough room to put a wrench in there, and the connector prevents using a socket. I went and bought a donor deep socket and ground the side out of it so I could pull the connector out through the side. Works great.

Now I have to figure out a way to keep any flame from escaping between the head and header flange on my center cylinders and burning my sensor wire. I think I'll just coat the header flange with RTV and hope it keeps the fire in. I might also wrap my sensor wires in something (suggestions welcome) just in case.

-Scouder