SBC Block question

What are you small chevy guys doing for blocks?

Right now we use a stock 350 4 bolt, I want to put some more power to it but I'm worried the block wont take it. I'm looking to make around 1000hp.

How good is the Little M, is it worth the money?

As always we are looking for good stuff and dont want to spend any money

 

blocks

give cnc blocks northeast a call 207 892 7215 talk to carl he can get u a good deal on a complete preped ready to assemble block for your application DARRIN

 

bordix is a good deal.dave

 

From experience....I made 900-1000hp on a studded stock cap 010 block. It did it for two years. At .030 it looked like it wanted to live pretty well. I tried one at .060 and i junked it when i cracked the 6th cylinder (ran it with a bunch of cracks, but finally got scared on the 6th one). I ran a stock steel GM crank (3.25 stroke & 3.48 stroke). Bearings always looked PRETTY. Rings worked well, but it was always poluting the oil pretty good. I chocked it up to my tuning style, conditions, etc. Anyways, after dropping an intake valve at 8400 RPM, needless to say, that block was done.

I now have a Little M. Steel splayed cap, 4.125 bore.

GET ONE. Run a stock block for now, save for a Little M. it'll be over 3g by the time you get done with the machine work (deck, bore, etc).

My oil now? CLEAN. my suspicion is the bores are staying round now and not killing the oil.

If i had 8g, i would own a CN block. I believe they are the BEST you can buy for a small chuby. You can have any number of 'tweaks' done to them. They are just the cat's meow. However, 8G? Not in my budget.

Please hit me up if you have more questions. I've raced alcohol small blocks for 10 years. I've blown most everything up you can, and learned thru most of it. I finally got daring and now i sit right behind the motor (BB/FD, FED). I run 7.0 & 7.60 with a 372" Little M Chevy.

Greg@meansracing.com

 

Right now its an injected 388" in a FED.
We can run 8.10-8.20s with it now and its a 010 block. We want to get it in the 7.50 range.

I want to put a blower on it, but the driver keeps talking about injected nitro. I'm not the one sittin with the thing, so its not my call.

 

I have been running Blown a blown sbc for over 20 yrs and a gm block will not live long at 1000 hp but a little m will

 

30-40% will do the trick easily. And your valve springs will love you for it. Put aluminum rods in it if you don't have them. A couple buddies of mine run injected small blocks in NE1 (7.60 index). Range from 25 -45 % depending on the quality of cyl head. They never hit 7G. I leave at 6200, and shift at 8000 on my blown small block

 

i also ran a studded 010 block it was a 355 stock steel 3.48 crank 6-71 blower kept the boost under 22lbs ran 8 flat in a 2900 lb door car also had a gm cnc race iron block motor 387 ci ran it with a 14-71 @40 lbs ran 7.50 188 in same car

 

We ran a blown small block for years with 2000 hp, (car ran low 3.90's in the 1/8th). We used a Brodix wide rail raised cam block and had very good luck with it. If we were to do it all over again and had to run a small block, the CN Block is 100% the way to go. www.cnblocks.com

Brandon Booher
NHRA TAD #323

 

we ran a oem 4 bolt main , 010 block
went 7.2 's @ 191 in a altered , twin turbo , 1900lbs
the maintance on bottom end was lots.

went to dart little M ,
now have 61 passes on motor, zero metal in filter, and running 6.7- 6.8 @ 200's

save some money, and do it right, with any of the namw brand blocks
less maintance from crank walk etc..

 

CN is the best around. Period. But costs a friggin' ton if you don't have a big dollar deal!
The Brodix is a great block for an aluminum if you don't want to spend almost twice on the CN. But again, spendy if you are looking to save every dime. But you do lose weight over the irons, and what does 100lbs cost in performance.
For an iron block, the Little M's are pretty darn decent. They don't come real true from DART, but with a quick go through, they stay nice and square and can take a beating. (Plus DART just dropped their prices to beat up on the chineese copies of their block.) BEWARE OF OFFSHORE BLOCKS RIGHT NOW!!! If they say "Dart style" or something like this in the ad, watch out! It better say DART! Bill Mitchell stuff is also pretty decent stuff.

 

know its a little off topic but how much has anyone pushed the little m block and have it stay alive? will it last beyond 2000 boosted hp if filled up to the water holes (lets say we dont have any detonation so the main caps stay where they should)? or will the mains start walk around anyway?

 

Little M

My rocket block was filled to the top all holes in deck pluged all options we done to make it live. I run a pair of custom made All Pro 13* solid heads with with a set off donavon head studs also a 14/71 hh at 32#, Hogan intake.
It lived for 11 passes 4 1/4 and 7 1/8 and the best pass was a mid 7 pass in a 3500# door car. It lifted both heads and split the block between the cylinders in three locations. I now have a CN block dont waist your money buy a CN block and use the best head studs that money can buy.

 

If your asking about cast iron...when I ran a small block I was making between 1300hp to 1500 hp and I used the splayed steel cap, world products motown block with no issues!!!

 

Sbc

We ran a Oddy SBC olds rocket block -12 brodix heads HH put it 48lbs of boost 7.20 at 3150lbs. Ran it for years without a problem. the block was not filled, we ran water in the block and the heads. Best motor I had with minimul maintence. Call Bill at Oddys and speek to him,

Good luck
Andy

 

thanks all for inputs. andy do you remember the bore of that motor? if your cyl walls was as thick as mine i might get away unfilled and keep the oil cooler. what head stud size did you run?

 

We just got a Dart aluminium 400 block, its water jacketed and im not really used to that.

We run our SBC now with a stock 010 block filled, would it be better to fill this aluminium one or leave it. If we leave it, should we use water?

 

dart

We are using a Dart aluminum block and did not fill it and don't use any water. Made 1700 hp on the dyno without playing with fuel tuneup which we have been doing at the track. No problems at all so if you are shooting for 1000hp, you should be fine. We have went to solid copper gaskets with no water jacket holes and only filled the heads with water. No pump but wanted to pull some of the heat away from the two center exhaust valves. Leakdown on the engine has been better. Before we would start losing on the leakdowns after one pass. We are using Brodix 18* heads. Good Luck!

 

If you're going to spend money on an iron block, don't waste your time on a Little M. Get the iron eagle with the tall deck and raised cam, and all that stuff... that way if you ever put big rods in it, or wanna go big stroke you're covered.

 

Thats about what we do on our big Mopar wedge, and it works good, solid block, water in the heads. I use two small water pumps and two small 2 quart water tanks to balance the head temps.

We might try that on the small block like you did, with gaskets without water holes.